Mission Ladakh Zanskar Siachen 2007 - Day 06
Drass – Kargil – Sanko – Panikher – Rangdum – Penzi La – Drang Drung – Rangdum
The day started at 5 AM and we were ready by 5.40 to leave, although our Driver was still absconding. I must mention that although the rooms in all the Army Camps were awesome, the toilets were not so well maintained. The drainage system in most of them was not in order but no complaining on our part – What else, could we ask for, in such treacherous terrain? :-)
The day started at 5 AM and we were ready by 5.40 to leave, although our Driver was still absconding. I must mention that although the rooms in all the Army Camps were awesome, the toilets were not so well maintained. The drainage system in most of them was not in order but no complaining on our part – What else, could we ask for, in such treacherous terrain? :-)
Dras War Memorial
Towering Tiger Hill
When we reached Drass War Memorial around 6.30, the Sun was already shining hard overhead. We requested the Guards to open the gates and they opened immediately. One of them had even saluted, mistaking Bikiran to be an Officer since he was in that kind of dress :-) For the next 1 hour, we were just reeling under the emotional, psychological and physical turmoil – our Army must have undergone during Operation Vijay. We read the logs of each and every battle there and listened to the explaining Jawan carefully, as he showed us Tiger Hill, Tololing, Pt 4875 (now known as Batra Top after Capt. Vikram Batra) and Mashkoh Valley. After 1999, the Forward posts are never emptied in winters and this causes a lot of expense in terms of Casualties in the extreme conditions. I literally saluted the Memorial and gathered the will to sit back in the car for the journey ahead. On the way to Kargil, we met the interesting signboards yet again warning us regarding the danger lurking just beside. That meant that we were driving right across the LOC. Thrilled with the realization, we managed to get outside and get ourselves clicked. Soon, we saw Indus taking leave of Ladakh and heading towards Kashmir from where she will take leave of India to feed Pakistan.
Pakis could watch this road in summer of 99
Wall built in 8 hours to protect Ration/Arms truck from Shelling
Indus says GoodBye!
We stopped in Kargil for breakfast – but I guess, we were too early. No restaurant in the main market had opened up for breakfast. Finally, we found a place where the guy got ready to serve us Bread-Butter. While he prepared it, I went outside to try calling home but I was told that the telephone exchange of the entire Kargil region is burnt and it would only be available either in Sonamarg or Khalatse. Dejected, I returned and looked around. The place was okay, apart from the posters and the slogans in Urdu from the Irani leader. I showed them to Farhan and he calmed me by saying “Why are you worried? We’ll just eat quickly and proceed”. I took his word and ate. We were not satisfied but it was getting late and we wanted to leave. I went in the kitchen and what I felt there can be explained as: Dark, Dirty, Stinky and Repulsive. I somehow managed to cross all the heaps of the meat and the only thing I was saying was “Mom, you would have lost your consciousness, if you would have been here”. We went till the Fuel Pump on the other side of Indus in Kargil towards Leh before retreating back our way and took the left turn towards Padum.
The road was playing hide-n-seek with us, as we entered the Suru Valley. It was in Sanko, luckily that we remembered that we didn’t have Mineral Water with us. On asking, we got an unheard new brand of Mineral Water – as expensive as any other Global brand. Gradually, the road disappeared completely and we reached Panikher check post of J&K Police. We were already confused till now and a little apprehensive of where the dirt track is leading us – when I realized the importance of Milestones. All our identities were registered there (in case, we go absconding) and were shown the Nun-Kun peaks. Although, we were told that we would be able to see Nun-Kun peaks better and closer from Parkachik, Hari (being the smarter one) clicked a zoomed picture of both Nun and Kun. Thereafter, we took an alternative shorter route from there on, which would bypass Panikher and Parkachik villages and while we did this, I was struggling to get views of Nun-Kun, however Parkachik Glacier was better visible.
The road was playing hide-n-seek with us, as we entered the Suru Valley. It was in Sanko, luckily that we remembered that we didn’t have Mineral Water with us. On asking, we got an unheard new brand of Mineral Water – as expensive as any other Global brand. Gradually, the road disappeared completely and we reached Panikher check post of J&K Police. We were already confused till now and a little apprehensive of where the dirt track is leading us – when I realized the importance of Milestones. All our identities were registered there (in case, we go absconding) and were shown the Nun-Kun peaks. Although, we were told that we would be able to see Nun-Kun peaks better and closer from Parkachik, Hari (being the smarter one) clicked a zoomed picture of both Nun and Kun. Thereafter, we took an alternative shorter route from there on, which would bypass Panikher and Parkachik villages and while we did this, I was struggling to get views of Nun-Kun, however Parkachik Glacier was better visible.
Badi Bahen - NUN
aur Chhoti - KUN
Parkachik
The terrain changed from green to lush green – the Suru Valley showing its majesty and it was exactly like Switzerland. The dirt track was really very bad with no milestones when we came across a jeep. We immediately stopped them and asked about the distance remaining - whether we would be able to reach Padum – our destination for the day. It would be tough, we were told and on asking about Drang Drung, we got stunned looks. One of them got out and came to have a closer look at us – he explained that they are Geologists studying the Drang Drung Glacier for many days and haven’t seen any tourists who are even aware of the glacier. We got the best estimates of the distances from them and after they had left, we decided that it was not worth going to Padum. We would stay at Rangdum, go ahead only till Drang Drung and return. We reached Rangdum past 2 and went in looking for rooms at the PWD Rest House. We were late by just 60 seconds when 2 world-bikers from Germany and France booked one of the 2 rooms available. We frowned but realized that even one was big enough for us :-) While I was busy enjoying the surroundings, Hari got busy clicking their customized BMW’s. I enquired about the place to have lunch and within few minutes, reached the Zanskar Express. However, we decided to eat at a neighboring restaurant because of better options. The place was quite dingy again but better than Kargil. We had our lunch, quite satisfied and meanwhile, decided to go for Drang Drung today only as it was 3.30 PM. We would be able to return by 6 comfortably.
Welcome to Rangdum
We moved ahead of the Rangdum Gompa and soon found loads of Marmots moving here and there. Hari tried clicking at least 12 times before he could catch a good zoom of one Marmot. They were too cute. I was in deep slumber when I was woken up by others and told “We have reached Penzi La”. I looked around but couldn’t find any signboard confirming this. I said “First, reach Penzi La”. Nobody was ready to believe that this is not Penzi La. Prakash got down to ask a local lady and only proceeded when she told him to. Prakash was inexperienced on this track so even he didn’t know the exact location of the Glacier. After few minutes, we finally reached Penzi La, where it was written and a Tibetan temple made. I looked around for the Glacier and found a big ice-sheet. When Prakash indicated that this is the glacier, Hari went on the record “So, this is the Second largest Glacier of India”. I was mute, confused – feeling like I was responsible for this trip and this glacier was far from being worth of all this. I insisted to go ahead and it was a matter of minutes when we saw a big sheet of snow at a distance. I knew it had to be this. On Prakash’ request, we got down and started trekking towards the Glacier. It was the first time we realized that actual distances are far from what they seem in Mountains. On trekking for sometime, getting out of breath, we found that the road came winding down to the place. We tried hard and luckily, got Prakash’ attention and instructed him to come down. On reaching the car, we gladly got in and proceeded towards the point closest to the Glacier. On trekking for sometime, we got across a deep trench difficult to pass so we clicked the Glacier from there and started back. We went ahead till we got some more good pictures of the Glacier and returned back. 
Majestic Drang-Drung Glacier
This is the 300 km Road from Kargil to Padum!
Dinner at the same place was good (Remember, good is a relative term now). I opted for Maggi this time for the obvious reasons. At 5 ft distance, I could see the cook burning something at the stove. Farhan confirmed that it was indeed a Chicken being roasted. I was speechless and thought again about Mom :-) I completed my Maggi and enjoyed the beauty of that cold night, as we walked towards our Rest House. Hari went to sleep but others were in a different mood altogether – Me, Farhan and Bikiran – We chatted, chatted and chatted till it was 2 AM and Hari awoke. It was time, I guess, to sleep otherwise tomorrow would be hell.
