Mission Ladakh Zanskar Siachen 2007 - Day 02
Kiratpur – Bilaspur – Sundernagar – Mandi – Pandoh – Kullu – Manali
It must have been midnight when I awoke suddenly and saw there was nothing I could see in the front through the Windshield. It was raining hard, and everybody (as I got to know later) was awake but silent in fear of heavy downpour, while I was thinking about whether Rohtang La would be covered with snow now. When I woke up – it was only 4 AM. Everybody was asleep except people who were under Hill Sickness already. I tried my best to ignore the puking sounds and rather concentrate on the Hill Roads – and to my good luck, I was successful.
We made our first stop for Fuel somewhere near Sundernagar and thereafter for Breakfast before Mandi. Everybody had woke up and was reeling with the mountains under the clear skies. Although it was time for the first picture of the trip but nothing good came in the frame. We were soon joined by Beas, and some spectacular scenes started appearing including the Pandoh Dam. We reached Kullu by 9 AM but there was some procession going on and the roads of Kullu are the narrowest, I have ever seen that it took us more than 2 hours to reach Manali.
Accommodation, obviously, was not a problem. We headed straight to the Log Hut Road and within an hour, our rooms were ready. My main concern was to arrange for transport to Leh. After making a call home, I asked the Hotel Manager about the Cab to Leh. He called the Taxi Union Office, I suppose, and quoted me 8,000/-. I was happy and booked the same immediately. As soon as I broke the good news to others in the room, I got a call from him saying that he had misheard – the rate was 13,500/-. I gulped – but I could only murmur “Okay”. Now I would have to do it on my own.
We got ready, had our lunch and started walking towards the Mall where the main Taxi Stand was. As told earlier, eluding the main Stand, I and Bikiran walked towards the end of Taxi Queue and soon we got hold of a Taxi Driver, who was alone. We told him the requirements and connected him to our Leh Agent – they talked it out in detail but he wasn’t convinced whether he would be provided with a return passenger, as promised. Reluctantly, he told us “I’ll give you a call in sometime”. We went back to the Park where Farhan and Hari were waiting, and we proceeded on to Hadimba Temple. It was a good hike – especially because we followed the Staircase route. It was very crowded and I was not amused by it even a bit. I searched for the famous Fruit-Chat hawker, whose products we had relished 15 years ago – he was not there. We visited the temple (Long Queue) and thought it was time to hurry back to the Taxi Driver. On the way, Farhan thought he would get clicked with that furry rabbit or the huge Yak but changed his mind when I told him – they would charge at least 50/- for the picture.
1-Day Tempo – starts tomorrow morning 2 AM (Cancelled)
1-Day Taxi – starts tomorrow morning 2 AM (Cancelled)
2-Day Journey by Bus – starts Day after tomorrow (Cancelled) – At this, I was delighted because if this Bus would start the next day, then I would have had to concede.
At this point, I got hold of a Driver who quoted for 12,500/- (1,000/- less than the official rate). He said his cab is on the top at a nearby office of Patli Kuhal and he can get his customized Ticket from there. There was a pile of discussions between my friends that were overflowing my head and causing a heap of headache. Even now, I get that headache, after thinking about it. That was one of those tough times. Finally, everybody was convinced that this would be the best option and agreed. But when I went to finalize the deal with him, on asking when are we leaving – he said “2 AM”. We were shocked “(Oh No! Not Again) Bhai, Subah 2 baje kisliye? Humein 2 din mein pahunchna hai. (Why at 2 AM? We want a 2 day journey)” He was completely shattered – after all, his one day would be lost. After a few minutes of argument and peaceful convincing, he gave up. He asked us to be ready by 5 AM. We would go to Patli Kuhal and will leave Manali by 6 sharp!
I was so relieved (not knowing that similar worries would again show their face later) and now everybody wanted to go to that river bank, which everybody had earlier seen from a distance. We reached there soon and found that somebody had arranged for River Crossing. Rates were quite nominal – 50/- but I was still under Mom’s words “Don’t do something risky”. I waited for Farhan to do it and after he had arrived back safely – I thought “Well, this entire trip is risky. Let’s go ahead!” :D I waited further for Bikiran to complete and then I was sure, if the rope could take Bikiran’s weight; then it would be absolutely safe for me. And yes, it was awesome – an amazing experience – Loud noise of River running underneath and Adrenalin was at its maximum flow when my rope was oscillated up & down. My feet were almost numb with the chilled water.
Soon, we re-arranged our stuff, decided to have our dinner down here only. It took us at least 30 minutes and a trek of at least 2 km to decide a place which was both cheap and good for the meal. While they ordered, I made a quick phone call and shared few of my experiences till now (The Cost). We reached hotel and I told the Assistant there that we’ll check out at 5.30 AM. As soon as I lied down to sleep, I realized there was only 1 Blanket and suddenly Loud Music started playing with the Cold. I had to go out in the Nightdress to ask them for Blankets and to lower down the volume of the Music. Apparently, the Manager was absconding and the Staff was drunk – so they replied by just smiling and asking me to enjoy with them. I ignored and went back to the room. Fortunately, the noise lowered and I was taken into deep slumber.
It must have been midnight when I awoke suddenly and saw there was nothing I could see in the front through the Windshield. It was raining hard, and everybody (as I got to know later) was awake but silent in fear of heavy downpour, while I was thinking about whether Rohtang La would be covered with snow now. When I woke up – it was only 4 AM. Everybody was asleep except people who were under Hill Sickness already. I tried my best to ignore the puking sounds and rather concentrate on the Hill Roads – and to my good luck, I was successful.
First Sighting of Beas
We made our first stop for Fuel somewhere near Sundernagar and thereafter for Breakfast before Mandi. Everybody had woke up and was reeling with the mountains under the clear skies. Although it was time for the first picture of the trip but nothing good came in the frame. We were soon joined by Beas, and some spectacular scenes started appearing including the Pandoh Dam. We reached Kullu by 9 AM but there was some procession going on and the roads of Kullu are the narrowest, I have ever seen that it took us more than 2 hours to reach Manali.
Accommodation, obviously, was not a problem. We headed straight to the Log Hut Road and within an hour, our rooms were ready. My main concern was to arrange for transport to Leh. After making a call home, I asked the Hotel Manager about the Cab to Leh. He called the Taxi Union Office, I suppose, and quoted me 8,000/-. I was happy and booked the same immediately. As soon as I broke the good news to others in the room, I got a call from him saying that he had misheard – the rate was 13,500/-. I gulped – but I could only murmur “Okay”. Now I would have to do it on my own.
Trek to Hadimba
We got ready, had our lunch and started walking towards the Mall where the main Taxi Stand was. As told earlier, eluding the main Stand, I and Bikiran walked towards the end of Taxi Queue and soon we got hold of a Taxi Driver, who was alone. We told him the requirements and connected him to our Leh Agent – they talked it out in detail but he wasn’t convinced whether he would be provided with a return passenger, as promised. Reluctantly, he told us “I’ll give you a call in sometime”. We went back to the Park where Farhan and Hari were waiting, and we proceeded on to Hadimba Temple. It was a good hike – especially because we followed the Staircase route. It was very crowded and I was not amused by it even a bit. I searched for the famous Fruit-Chat hawker, whose products we had relished 15 years ago – he was not there. We visited the temple (Long Queue) and thought it was time to hurry back to the Taxi Driver. On the way, Farhan thought he would get clicked with that furry rabbit or the huge Yak but changed his mind when I told him – they would charge at least 50/- for the picture.
Born a Demon - No Problem, Marry a God n Get yourself a Temple!
This time, all of us went to the Taxi Driver and when we reached, we were told that he would not be able to make it. “It’s Risky!” He recommended us to a friend of his who runs Daily Taxi to Leh (1-day journey). The rate for the same would be 1400/- per person. I declined but now my friends started thinking of other options like Bus. Although I was convinced that Booked Taxi is the best and only good option, I had to at least enquire about other options. All of us went from one place to another enquiring about the options, which came out to be:1-Day Tempo – starts tomorrow morning 2 AM (Cancelled)
1-Day Taxi – starts tomorrow morning 2 AM (Cancelled)
2-Day Journey by Bus – starts Day after tomorrow (Cancelled) – At this, I was delighted because if this Bus would start the next day, then I would have had to concede.
At this point, I got hold of a Driver who quoted for 12,500/- (1,000/- less than the official rate). He said his cab is on the top at a nearby office of Patli Kuhal and he can get his customized Ticket from there. There was a pile of discussions between my friends that were overflowing my head and causing a heap of headache. Even now, I get that headache, after thinking about it. That was one of those tough times. Finally, everybody was convinced that this would be the best option and agreed. But when I went to finalize the deal with him, on asking when are we leaving – he said “2 AM”. We were shocked “(Oh No! Not Again) Bhai, Subah 2 baje kisliye? Humein 2 din mein pahunchna hai. (Why at 2 AM? We want a 2 day journey)” He was completely shattered – after all, his one day would be lost. After a few minutes of argument and peaceful convincing, he gave up. He asked us to be ready by 5 AM. We would go to Patli Kuhal and will leave Manali by 6 sharp!
I was so relieved (not knowing that similar worries would again show their face later) and now everybody wanted to go to that river bank, which everybody had earlier seen from a distance. We reached there soon and found that somebody had arranged for River Crossing. Rates were quite nominal – 50/- but I was still under Mom’s words “Don’t do something risky”. I waited for Farhan to do it and after he had arrived back safely – I thought “Well, this entire trip is risky. Let’s go ahead!” :D I waited further for Bikiran to complete and then I was sure, if the rope could take Bikiran’s weight; then it would be absolutely safe for me. And yes, it was awesome – an amazing experience – Loud noise of River running underneath and Adrenalin was at its maximum flow when my rope was oscillated up & down. My feet were almost numb with the chilled water.
Hanging over the Manusa
Soon, we re-arranged our stuff, decided to have our dinner down here only. It took us at least 30 minutes and a trek of at least 2 km to decide a place which was both cheap and good for the meal. While they ordered, I made a quick phone call and shared few of my experiences till now (The Cost). We reached hotel and I told the Assistant there that we’ll check out at 5.30 AM. As soon as I lied down to sleep, I realized there was only 1 Blanket and suddenly Loud Music started playing with the Cold. I had to go out in the Nightdress to ask them for Blankets and to lower down the volume of the Music. Apparently, the Manager was absconding and the Staff was drunk – so they replied by just smiling and asking me to enjoy with them. I ignored and went back to the room. Fortunately, the noise lowered and I was taken into deep slumber.
