Mission Ladakh Zanskar Siachen 2007 - Day 03
Manali – Marhi – Rohtang La – Koksar – Keylong – Darcha – Baralacha La – Sarchu
Clock struck 4.30 and I woke up by the Alarm. I had not shat for 2 days now and I was getting worried about it now. This made me go inside and forcing it. Fortunately, I was relieved :-) and as soon as I was ready, my phone rang and the Driver told Bikiran that he would be here in 5 minutes. I was ready with the luggage and I took my bag with me to the Gate. He came, took a U-Turn and took me to the Patli Kuhal Taxi Union Office (around 24 km towards Kullu). He told me the entire drama that I had to play there and I knocked at the Office Gate. The officer there woke up and quoted me 16,000/- I was surprised – even the Driver checked. Apparently, after 10 minutes of playing it – the officer understood the drama and irritatingly called the Driver inside and told “I’m allotting a ticket of 16,000 to you. Now, you arrange it on your own. I don’t care.” Both were happy – hurried back to Manali and I called Bikiran to check out and be ready. Our hurry was marred by a huge herd of sheep.
I think it was around 6.45 when we were finally ready – Ready to follow the trail – What trail – we shall see! That same herd was again there to obstruct our way, as we took the turn towards Rohtang. As decided, we stopped at Marhi for our breakfast (Damn Costly!). I decided, I would not pay him the entire amount of 12,500/- at once. He had also told me that his friend might take us from Darcha onwards. When I told him about this, he was distressed and I, somehow convinced him to accept 6,500/- now and then I would pay him 6,000/- at Darcha.
We were just about to reach Rohtang La when he stopped. There was a jam! :-( But fortunately, there was some snow sheets and since Hari had seen snow for the first time in his life, time was not difficult to pass. On trying, I could even call home and tell Mom the exhilaration that I could already feel. I also told her that I might not be able to call her for next 2 days. We must have waited there for an hour or so when the traffic cleared and we crossed Rohtang La in a blink of an eye.
Clock struck 4.30 and I woke up by the Alarm. I had not shat for 2 days now and I was getting worried about it now. This made me go inside and forcing it. Fortunately, I was relieved :-) and as soon as I was ready, my phone rang and the Driver told Bikiran that he would be here in 5 minutes. I was ready with the luggage and I took my bag with me to the Gate. He came, took a U-Turn and took me to the Patli Kuhal Taxi Union Office (around 24 km towards Kullu). He told me the entire drama that I had to play there and I knocked at the Office Gate. The officer there woke up and quoted me 16,000/- I was surprised – even the Driver checked. Apparently, after 10 minutes of playing it – the officer understood the drama and irritatingly called the Driver inside and told “I’m allotting a ticket of 16,000 to you. Now, you arrange it on your own. I don’t care.” Both were happy – hurried back to Manali and I called Bikiran to check out and be ready. Our hurry was marred by a huge herd of sheep.
I think it was around 6.45 when we were finally ready – Ready to follow the trail – What trail – we shall see! That same herd was again there to obstruct our way, as we took the turn towards Rohtang. As decided, we stopped at Marhi for our breakfast (Damn Costly!). I decided, I would not pay him the entire amount of 12,500/- at once. He had also told me that his friend might take us from Darcha onwards. When I told him about this, he was distressed and I, somehow convinced him to accept 6,500/- now and then I would pay him 6,000/- at Darcha.
We were just about to reach Rohtang La when he stopped. There was a jam! :-( But fortunately, there was some snow sheets and since Hari had seen snow for the first time in his life, time was not difficult to pass. On trying, I could even call home and tell Mom the exhilaration that I could already feel. I also told her that I might not be able to call her for next 2 days. We must have waited there for an hour or so when the traffic cleared and we crossed Rohtang La in a blink of an eye.
Will do this trail - Soon!
First Pass Conquered and we were now descending into the Lahaul Valley – my first dream. Terrain changed dramatically – Trees disappearing – Stones and Rocks finding their place. I asked the Driver to stop at the place where the road from Kaza meets. When I took a picture there, I told others – “There are some pictures I HAVE to take – Don’t ask me why, what, etc.” :-) We reached Khoksar checkpost and I clicked the Bridge again about which I had read in Yogesh’ blog that it had been destroyed in 2005.
Tandi Fuel Pump
The car was giving some problems – It was skipping and hence, halting anywhere. This was dangerous and it had to be repaired. We stopped in Keylong at a Repair Garage. While the mechanic took it for a test-drive, Hari was busy clicking some good frames around. When he returned, it was decided that the mechanic would drive till Darcha. It must have been around 1 PM when we reached Darcha and as soon as we entered the Tent Restaurant, I uttered that word which I had been dying to say “Julay” :-) The lady there replied “Julay” smilingly and welcomed us to a whole lot of options – Dal/Kadhi Rice, Roti Sabzi, Maggi, Thukpa, Momo. The team ordered Mutton Momos whereas I went ahead for Dal/Kadhi Rice. It was delicious – I must tell you – There is nothing like homely food in a cozy tent at such a cold place where nothing else is available. We savored every bit of the food, bought some mineral water bottles and were ready to leave; when the Driver told us that he had already transferred the luggage to his friend’s car who would take us to Leh. I made the balance payment and he took us across the long bridge where his “friend’s” car was parked. Voila – It was a JK-10! We understood immediately but didn’t say anything.
Suraj/Vishal Tal
Without wasting time, we settled in the new car and started ahead. His name was Namgail and I was unable to understand anything he was speaking. Finally, I gave up. Clmbing up and up – I felt the first signs of the air thinning. He spoke himself “Agar Oxygen ki problem hoti hai toh Vicks ki goli lo”. I tried avoiding it but later popped one. There was a small unnamed but very serene and beautiful lake on the way. On our way back, we came to know that it was called Suraj/Vishal Tal. In no time, we reached Baralacha La. Stopping some 50 meters ahead; we had to go back to the Board for clicking snaps. Bikiran made the mistake of running but after some 15 meters, he realized that it’s not a joke to be running at 16,500 feet above sea level. Oxygen level is low – REALLY! And it’s got nothing to do with your physique, health or power.
Baralacha La - 16,500 Feet
Power n Effect of Wind Erosion!
Starting again, we were getting overwhelmed by the Terrain. All of us were dumbstruck and then we saw this just before Sarchu. The mountain had been eroded by air into strange anthill-like formations. Spectacular! And that’s when Farhan exclaimed the quote of the journey – “And I thought; only women are beautiful on this planet!” Soon, we cross the bridge over River Sarchuka and as we entered J&K, BRO welcomed us to Project Himank. We settled in for a tent through Namgail. They quoted us 30 per bed in the Common Tent and 300 for the complete separate Tent. I bargained easily and the deal was set at 200 for the Tent. We threw our luggage there and while Namgail took the car for some repair, we set out to click pictures – Milestones, Signboards, and Lovely Terrain everywhere!
BRO Welcomes you to Project Himank
As the night fell, I started feeling uncomfortable. It was cold and since I was roaming outside, the cold wind entered my chest and I was under Dry Whooping cough already. They offered me Hot Water and asked me to remain inside. I ordered for Maggi and went to sleep, after taking Diamox. Bikiran, although looking fine, also decided to take a pill. While I stepped outside, Farhan showed me an amazing arrangement of stars and the moon. One star was resting perfectly on the crescent of the Moon (which we were told later in Delhi that it was Venus – not a star). It deserved clicking but I guess, neither Hari nor me was in a state to look for the camera in the darkness and go out of the tent again to click it.
Sarchu Bridge: HP-JK Border
The night that followed was the toughest of all. It was high, it was cold – Air was really thin – and it was really uncomfortable. None of us (as we discussed the next morning) could sleep properly and it seemed that we were all having Cheynes Strokes Respiration cycles. After getting sleep I used to wake up suddenly and looked around for the reason of my waking up. Bikiran was on my side and when I expressed my desire to piss, he told me that he had just gone outside – it’s not so cold – just go, do it and come back soon. I did so and since I was sleeping with 4 layers of woolens on, I didn’t feel much cold! Just a little shivering and cold breeze crossing my spine – nothing more! Farhan told us in the morning that he was also awake at many times especially when I and Bikiran were talking about going outside; he had heard most of our conversations.
