Mission Ladakh Zanskar Siachen 2007 - Day 09
Leh - Khardung La - Khalsar - Sumur - Panamik - Sasoma - Snout - Sasoma
And the day finally arrived when we were supposed to do the honours – to cross the Highest Motorable Road in the World!
As instructed, we reached the Alpha Mess to pick the CMP Officer, who had been placed by Uncle to accompany us throughout the forthcoming trips to Inner Line Areas. We directly left after a short while and soon we were climbing the winding roads north of Leh. We reached South Pallu, well before the scheduled time when the Tourists are allowed to cross. Because of us, the Check Post had to allow few other Tourists also to proceed. We could see the wind chilling our spine again and the snow was growing in quantity. The tower was visible from a distance and when we reached there – the adrenalin flowing through my vessels was unexplainable. We had reached the places of all – Khardung La – The Highest Motorable Road in the World!
I remembered Uncle’s special warning (in addition to the precautions, I knew) not to spend more than 15 minutes on the Top. Hari clicked loads of pictures – as instructed – with the board – on top of the Marble, with the Flags. We were treated with Hot Tea and to our amusement; other tourists were indeed staring at us with curiosity wondering at the fact that we are getting tea at the Top of the World :-)
And the day finally arrived when we were supposed to do the honours – to cross the Highest Motorable Road in the World!
As instructed, we reached the Alpha Mess to pick the CMP Officer, who had been placed by Uncle to accompany us throughout the forthcoming trips to Inner Line Areas. We directly left after a short while and soon we were climbing the winding roads north of Leh. We reached South Pallu, well before the scheduled time when the Tourists are allowed to cross. Because of us, the Check Post had to allow few other Tourists also to proceed. We could see the wind chilling our spine again and the snow was growing in quantity. The tower was visible from a distance and when we reached there – the adrenalin flowing through my vessels was unexplainable. We had reached the places of all – Khardung La – The Highest Motorable Road in the World!
I remembered Uncle’s special warning (in addition to the precautions, I knew) not to spend more than 15 minutes on the Top. Hari clicked loads of pictures – as instructed – with the board – on top of the Marble, with the Flags. We were treated with Hot Tea and to our amusement; other tourists were indeed staring at us with curiosity wondering at the fact that we are getting tea at the Top of the World :-)
Highest Motorable Point on the face of this planet!
We started descending ahead and it was time for Breakfast, when we reached North Pallu. The Breakfast was absolutely ready in the camp – I was wondering – is it a place to relish such delicious Gobi Paranthas with Butter, Pickle and “beautiful” Curd? Well, we proceeded ahead and when we stopped at Khalsar, we were confused. Not later, we were served Tea and then we realized that it was all a part of the hospitability. We were overwhelmed and just went on discussing how it would have been, if we were accompanied by any liquor-loving friends.
Quite true!... Literally! BRO Zindabad!
On reaching the bifurcation, we took the road towards Panamik and the next stop was the Hot Sulphur Spring. The weather had turned hot yet this spring was welcome for my Cervical & Spinal Aches. However, on observing, the place was haunted (nobody to be seen for miles) and the source of the spring was untraceable. We soon reached the Panamik Check Post where the Tourist Area ends. Our CMP Officer got down and soon, we were on the No Tourist’s Land. The milestones started showing Sasoma but there was no sign which showed that we are close to the World’s Highest Battlefield. Road was fairly good and the tracks showed tyremarks of only the Military Vehicles. The weather was hot for the most part and the terrain was dry – peaks capped with snow.
Treating my flesh and bones with sulphur spring - Panamik!
My eyes wanted me to sleep but my mind told me not to – and soon, we were past Sasoma, where there were no milestones. After sometime, we could see some activities and developed blocks at a distance. We knew this had to be the Base Camp!
As we crossed the Huge Bridge over Nubra River, my conflicting thoughts of clicking that bridge were smoothened by my friends. We were stopped by the Guards there, but soon let into the Base Camp. As we proceeded, we saw Jawans working on something or the other – most of them must have just finished their lunch.
65 kilometer after the Tourist Permitted Area, finally – for the first time, in my life, the Road Ended and we saw "Siachen Dwar". We stopped much before the Gate where the Jawans guided us into a Camp. Upon entering, everything blacked out – in contrast to the outside Sun that it took us some time to see comfortably. The room was full of Officers having their lunch and the TV showing some advertisements. It was marvelous to see the centre position being grabbed by the stoutest and the most powerful Officer among all. He enquired Farhan about our relationship to Army – and we could just say “Friend”. We had our lunch in the back room of the Lounge, the walls of which were jutted by all the details about the Battalions, which have been posted there since 1984.
On waiting for sometime in the Lounge, we met a Captain – who, supposedly, had been held responsible for showing us around. At first, when he got to know that none of us are from Army Background, he was annoyed and expressed it subtly. I was very irritated by the way he taunted on Farhan – “There should be some purpose in life. Money is not everything.” And etc.
After all, each one of us is doing something or the other for the country. I respect the Army men utmost, above all, for their work and the responsibility. But saying that we are nothing – is incorrect. If India is considered among the top countries today, it is not because of the Army – it is because of the Economy and the boon that Outsourcing has been to this country. I wanted to tell him that we are part of that community which is working to uphold India’s respect as a Good Service Provider to the world. I know if you wouldn’t be there, there would be no existence of India but we are no less. However, I didn’t say anything thinking that might worsen the matter. Let the Captain take his time to pacify.
As we crossed the Huge Bridge over Nubra River, my conflicting thoughts of clicking that bridge were smoothened by my friends. We were stopped by the Guards there, but soon let into the Base Camp. As we proceeded, we saw Jawans working on something or the other – most of them must have just finished their lunch.
65 kilometer after the Tourist Permitted Area, finally – for the first time, in my life, the Road Ended and we saw "Siachen Dwar". We stopped much before the Gate where the Jawans guided us into a Camp. Upon entering, everything blacked out – in contrast to the outside Sun that it took us some time to see comfortably. The room was full of Officers having their lunch and the TV showing some advertisements. It was marvelous to see the centre position being grabbed by the stoutest and the most powerful Officer among all. He enquired Farhan about our relationship to Army – and we could just say “Friend”. We had our lunch in the back room of the Lounge, the walls of which were jutted by all the details about the Battalions, which have been posted there since 1984.
On waiting for sometime in the Lounge, we met a Captain – who, supposedly, had been held responsible for showing us around. At first, when he got to know that none of us are from Army Background, he was annoyed and expressed it subtly. I was very irritated by the way he taunted on Farhan – “There should be some purpose in life. Money is not everything.” And etc.
After all, each one of us is doing something or the other for the country. I respect the Army men utmost, above all, for their work and the responsibility. But saying that we are nothing – is incorrect. If India is considered among the top countries today, it is not because of the Army – it is because of the Economy and the boon that Outsourcing has been to this country. I wanted to tell him that we are part of that community which is working to uphold India’s respect as a Good Service Provider to the world. I know if you wouldn’t be there, there would be no existence of India but we are no less. However, I didn’t say anything thinking that might worsen the matter. Let the Captain take his time to pacify.
Can you tell me what is beneath these rocks? - Frozen Earth!
Soon, he started explaining about what the Glacier is and explaining to us the plan ahead. As he guided Prakash into Siachen Dwar, we just sat there speechless, under huge thrill factor and waiting for more. The dirt track culminated in a temple which was named after a Jawan who saved the entire Glacier almost single-handedly, when it was first attacked in 1984 by Pakistan. Captain did explain to us about the strategic importance of the Glacier for India – one, It is natural protection against Pakistan and China – two, It would create a very short route from Pakistan to China which is undesirable by India and – three, Pride (which means whatever Pakistan wants, will India give it to them). We paid our tributes to the Temple there and strolled ahead near the Glacier.
Temple of OP Baba - the sole Siachen savior from 1984
The Ice wall was huge and it seemed that a simple knock on the wall would make your hand bleed. I couldn't believe when I could actually touch the Glacier with my own fingers and big icicles were constantly breaking from the glacier on the mouth of Nubra and were flowing in that beautiful river. He asked us to pose in front of it – although I was skeptical of the ice-stones falling from the top. Fortunately, it didn’t happen with our heads. We moved ahead and he showed how the seemingly Black Soil was actually all Snow and Ice. Black, I guess, due to the regular Artillery Firing. 
Tough Frozen Land - Just Rock-hard Ice!
Tough Frozen Land - Just Rock-hard Ice!
Snow n Ice everywhere - Blackened and Damned!
He explained that it takes 22 days for jawans on foot to reach the Actual post from the Base Camp and every Battalion hangs a Bell at the temple before leaving. We retreated back because we were quite late to be able to visit the Training Area, let alone our physical capability to even reach there. We moved on the other side of the Nubra and to our astonishment, there was a good enough developed area with many cannons dug in the earth – all pointing towards North-West i.e. Pakistan :-)
He explained to us that when the original Amarnath Shiva ling melted for the first time in 2005, a second Amarnath appeared here. From then on, it has been called the Second Amarnath and the trek that leads to it, has been jutted with Steel gates bearing the names of the Regiments and the battles they have won in the past. From a distance, the trek and the stones encompassing the 2nd Amarnth seemed exactly similar to the other Amarnath. On the way back, when I told him of my friend, who recently turned Captain; he confirmed that my friend is 6 months senior to him. From then on, he turned quite friendly and less taunting – actually, no taunts :-)
He explained to us that when the original Amarnath Shiva ling melted for the first time in 2005, a second Amarnath appeared here. From then on, it has been called the Second Amarnath and the trek that leads to it, has been jutted with Steel gates bearing the names of the Regiments and the battles they have won in the past. From a distance, the trek and the stones encompassing the 2nd Amarnth seemed exactly similar to the other Amarnath. On the way back, when I told him of my friend, who recently turned Captain; he confirmed that my friend is 6 months senior to him. From then on, he turned quite friendly and less taunting – actually, no taunts :-)
Most Interesting list of Battles!
We proceeded ahead to Siachen War Memorial, whose architecture is spectacular. It bears the names of all the people who died on the post (after all, on an average 40 people die every year on the Glacier - let alone those who lose their limbs, digestive power, breathing power or snow-blindness…the list is endless.
You just need to read them to comprehend our feelings!
Hari clicked all the quotes written there – they were very motivating and emotional. One, which he couldn’t capture – I wrote down in my Diary:
“One who ”
“One who ”
You just need to read them to comprehend our feelings!
Getting back to the Camp, we were served Tea and Cookies while Captain got his laptop to transfer the pictures. He showed some of his pictures on the post and I could just imagine how difficult it would be to just stay there. We soon bid goodbyes and proceeded to Sasoma for the night stay. On the way, however, we were blocked as the RT Drill was going on. We reached Sasoma, well in time, with unforgettable memories of India’s largest Glacier, which is the World’s Highest Battlefield – Thanks to Pakistan and China.
Again just read the Board - and keep on imagining our feelings on achieving what an Indian citizen could only dream of! We cannot thank you enough Brig Uncle!
Back in Sasoma, we were treated like VIPs and the food was awesome beyond explanation. I found a copy of Jagmohan’s book “My Frozen Turbulence in Kashmir” there and read first few pages of it. That is one book, I want to read as soon as possible – a topic which is very close to my heart. I slept with the dreams of this place getting peaceful, which I know is not possible. In fact, that day is awaited when the entire Glacier would disappear due to the enhanced Warming effects due to Battle.
