Mission Spiti 2015 - Day 03

Kalpa – Roghi – Recong Peo – Pooh

Having popped in 3 tabs of Diamox in total till morning, my headache was showing good symptoms. My stomach was also behaving well when in seeking help in filling water in the Wiper pipe, I struck a conversation with an Udaipur driver Mukesh driving a RJ-27 Innova. Amidst many HP vehicles, there was also a ZoomCar DL XUV and 5 DL-HR-UP Bikes parked in the Parking Lot.

We had cleared all Bills last night and started towards Roghi Suicide Point at 08:40. Our target was to reach Krish Auto by 09:30. The Roghi village was sleepy and despite our intentions not to go to the village, we touched it and turned around to spot a Suicide Point. Actually the spot was quite dangerous especially for the acrophobic ones – Imagine after climbing 2000m over 15 km on a single mountain you still see the Satluj river down below. Such a sight can make anybody acrophobic.

Parking Lot of HPTDC Kinner Kailash

HPTDC Kinner Kailash

Mr Sachin Goel relishing the Kinner Kailash range

Kinner Kailash Range with a Hospital below

Roghi Suicide Point

Without getting down, we drove to Krish Auto where we were confirmed by the Workshop Manager that our Clutch Plate was in the Bus and due to arrive at 11:00. We insisted that the work be started immediately but were insisted back that the car parts would be disassembled only after arrival of the part. We were guided for the breakfast at the nearby HPPCL Rest House Dhaba where we could feast at awesome home-cooked Aloo Paranthas for Rs 25/- each. Promising to be back for Lunch of Rajma-Chawal at Rs 80/- each, we spent the next 6 hours looking at our car being disassembled and reassembled helplessly. Our presence there surely ensured that no nut-bolt was blown away by the wind and no part was forgotten in the reassembly. Mr Shiv Bhagat was busy all day with some religious function organized by the local RWA and sitting outside his residence above the Workshop, I observed how his toddler daughter happily returned from the school finding her own way into the house independently. Within my mind, I appreciated her independence and her parents’ way of bringing her up – a balance of home-foster and self-dependence.

Car Surgery in Progress

Krish Auto - Authorized Service Centre at Recong Peo

While waiting for the completion of car surgery, I had advised my brother that we should reach Pooh for the night if we want to visit Shipki La the next day and reach Sumdo the next night to which he agreed. Discussing about the punctured tyre at 17:00, Mr Bhagat advised to put a tube inside the tyre. I frantically went to Neelkanth Tyre Shop in the Main Market and got an R15 tube for our R16 tyre for a whopping Rs 600/-. Profusely thanking the entire team at Krish Auto, we left the Fuel Pump at 18:15 after filling an extra 2L bottle and a 5L Plastic Can provided to us by Mr Ansari. All the while my thoughts were pinned upon whether we made a sensible decision to install a tube considering that we could refill a tubeless tyre and continue but a tubed tyre would be flat instantly thereby requiring us to change the tyre then & there (possibly middle of nowhere).

But we continued – and before Spello, we were asked to enter our Details at the check-post. At this post we encountered 5 DL bikers with a Support Innova. As darkness loomed over and terrain not only changed but kept changing steadily, we observed that the traffic had now thinned. We had finally entered the Level 5 Travel Area. I had explained my concept of 6 Travel Area Levels to my brother when we had crossed Narkanda on the first day. My Concept was:

Level 1 – Shimla, Manali, Nainital

Level 2 – Narkanda, Sarahan

Level 3 – Sangla

Level 4 – Kalpa, Leh

Level 5 – Kaza, Munsyari

Level 6 – Chadar Trek or Everest Base Camp Trek

And as per my concept the traffic thinned as one climbed each level. Later, after we crossed Rohtang La on Day 08, I re-affirmed this concept by saying that I do not intend to undermine the Level 3 travelers or scoff at the Level 1 travelers. It is a mix of circumstances, capabilities and lifestyle statuses which formulate the level at which a person or a family will travel and that too might for only a limited period of time before climbing the next level.

You are Travelling on the World's Most Treacherous Road

You are Travelling on the World's Most Treacherous Road

Anyhow, we covered the road from Spello to Pooh in total darkness again breaking our own rule but only because there was no option. My heart was stuck on the newly tubed tyre whereas my brother’s lungs stopped breathing at every blind curve. Fortunately, as we discovered, the night driving had its own advantage – that any vehicle could be noticed from a huge distance because of its headlights. It is an interesting story that, on the following days, each and every BRO member told us it was too dangerous to cover Spello to Pooh in the dark. That also is a fact that we could not see the danger due to dark.

Dining Hall at Pooh

Room at Pooh

Dinner at Pooh

Bathroom at Pooh

The BRO Officer at Pooh had categorically told us over phone that our phones would stop working 1 hour after Powari and so you have to stop at the 68 RCC Camp at 424 KM Chainage (Please refer to my Kashmir Winter 2014 Travelogue to understand the concept of Chainage). As we approached Pooh, the entry to the Village climbed the hill on the left but we saw few lights glooming over huts that could be BRO establishment only and yes, our guess was right. We took the steep lane to park outside the BRO 68 RCC Guest House. The JE in charge welcomed us and took a relieved breath himself at the fact that we could reach Pooh safely at 21:30 and did not miss the BRO post at 424 KM Chainage. We thanked the caretaker and the cook profusely for providing us with a sumptuous meal and slept for the good night ahead as the clock showed 22:30. Our phones were now out of reach and the peace calmed us.

Mission Spiti 2015 - Day 02

Sangla – Chitkul – Sangla – Powari – Recong Peo – Kalpa

Mr Om Prakash, the Father of Owner of 2 Prakash hotels
And whom we gave a hitch-hike from Karchham to Sangla

Over the Roof at Prakash Regency

Dining Hall at Prakash Regency Sangla

Hindustan Ka Aakhri Dhaba

Shimla - 250km from Chitkul

HPPWD Rest House at Chitkul

Mr Sachin Goel showing the trail to Tibet, China

On way from Kuppa to Karchham

At the Dining table last night, I had confided in my brother that to be able to reach Pooh by 10:00 on Day 3, we should reach Kalpa by end of Day 2 (looking at the NH conditions after Wangtu). The morning seemed early but refreshing – getting ready early was not only important for us to be able to reach Kalpa after visiting Chitkul but also for us to be able to visit Banjara Camps on the way and then get the puncture repaired properly at Sangla. That is a different story that we skipped Sangla puncture shop and decided to get it checked at Recong Peo. Read on to know why! Our trip was about to undergo a drastic change.

As we headed east on Sangla Chitkul road, we encountered steep ascent but what changed our trip was not the steep ascent but a domesticated herd of sheep walking the main road. Afraid of not wounding any animal or our car, we moved very slowly amidst the herd when we could smell something burning in our bonnet. The smell was not of the engine or of a normal smoke – it smelt of rubber or leather. As we opened the bonnet to check, a couple of cars closed in and stopping – their drivers advising us to give some rest to the car before continuing. The temperature was 16°C as the clock struck 08:30. Proceeding towards Chitkul after the disappearance of the sheep, the bonnet kept giving out burning rubber’s smell constantly. Just before Chitkul, we had our trip’s first water crossing which I shot and decided to fill water to cool the bonnet down. Struggling with my frozen numb fingers, we poured a couple of liters water all over the bonnet. And then, another HP registered Bolero crossed us and on asking for advise, he drove home the point in an instant. I can still hear those words aloud – “Clutch Plate ghis gayi hai. Aap half clutch pe gaadi chala rahe ho. Badalni padegi nahi to kahin bhi khade ho jayoge”. My brother affirmed immediately and then we understood the problem without saying – just looking into each other’s eyes. During the sheep encounter, as my brother had tried to hold the car on the ascent, he had to keep the clutch pressed and in the process, had to drive even on the half-pressed clutch. This must have happened a lot on the Urni Link Road as well. The point now was that the clutch plate needed inspection and consoling me, he announced “There is a Maruti Service Station at Recong Peo. We’ll drive in there today evening.”

After that startling discovery, my brother treaded very carefully trying hard not to step on the clutch while climbing. We could reach Chitkul, clicked pictures of “Hindustan ka Aakhri Dhaba” & the view from Panchali Hotel (which was closed due to a court case, as I got to know later). Panchali Hotel was the only one that we seemed to develop a liking for. Shahenshah gave out an overwhelming fish smell and so did the other half-a-dozen accommodations on the way. Apart from the Panchali Hotel, PWD Rest House, sitting on the citadel, had a different charm of its own (have to stay there whenever I return).

The arduous first day journey combined with a one-day-ascent from Delhi to Sangla had already taken its toll on me as I had woken up with a severe headache this morning. While my brother was busy visiting the Banjara Camps on the way back, I decided to pop in a Diamox, thinking to myself at why I had not done it the evening before or in the morning itself. Due to the clutch plate problem, we decided to skip the Sangla Puncture shop and continue to Peo. On the way at 11:00, quite a few annoyed DL-PB family men stopped us to enquire if that was indeed the road to Sangla to which we replied in affirmative and smilingly advised them to drive slow and steady. An irritating incident for us, on the way, was to face an oncoming Kinnauri Baraat. Pretty women dressed up in their own way with men doing nothing but dancing in the car with a beer bottle in hand outside the car window. One of the buses made us experience what a tedious traffic crossing is on such a narrow hill road. The terrain kept changing as we closed into Powari but the huge tunnels on the way to Shongthong looked, well, HUGE and soon we were delighted to see the BRO 68 RCC HQ and OC Residence on the main road itself.

Calling the OC 68 RCC was in vain because as told later, he was visiting OC 108 RCC that day in Sumdo. We climbed towards Peo trying to call Krish Auto but the number was picked up by an annoyed lady who must be getting calls from every Maruti customer in the area. Shortly thereafter we pulled into the Indian Oil Fuel Pump where the attendant said “Its for Government vehicles only. Private Fuel Pump is that way”. After filling it up, we arrived at Krish Auto. Sunday was supposed to be an off for Krish Auto but due to a car being worked on, our good fortune brought us face to face with Mr Shiv Bhagat (the Owner) and Mr Ansari (Chief Supervisor relocated from Saharanpur at the behest of the Owner). On explaining the problem, they sniffed around the open bonnet and declared that our clutch plate was no good and it needed replacement especially when we were headed to Kaza and Kunzum La. Since it was out of stock, it had to be ordered from Chandigarh Stockholder. On giving a nod, Mr Bhagat promptly made a Call to Chandigarh and ordered for a SX4-2010-MT-Petrol Clutch Plate to be delivered by the overnight Deluxe Bus Service. The process seemed too simple to us and we wondered whether such a simple order statement would be carried out with perfection without delay. As we decided to stay at Kalpa rather than Peo, we reminded him to call again their Vendor to re-confirm the order and to re-affirm the urgency of the order – but he was absolutely relaxed.

With heavy heads, we drove up Kalpa to check our fate at PWD Rest House & Circuit House but Mr Bhagat had told us that both of them are occupied due to a minister’s arrival. Momentously, Good sense prevailed and my brother asked me to just grab a room as soon as possible at the HPTDC Kinner Kailash – an order that I obeyed to our relief because after our check-in, the flurry of tourists and travelers occupied the entire hotel as the sunlight vanished from the Kinner Kailash range. Our day ended with a rainbow and Rajma-Kadhai Paneer followed by phone calls to families and BRO officers in Delhi, Pooh & Sumdo post-poning our BRO stays and ShipkiLa-Kaurik trips by one day definitely and infinite indefinitely. Of course the clutch plate news was officially withheld from family due to the fear of dire consequences.

Sunset at Kinner Kailash, Kalpa

I would like to mention here the excellent hospitality I received from Mr Negi (at the front desk of HPTDC Hotel). On requesting for a hot water rubber bottle to comfort my back, he sent a boy to his residence up the hill to grab one for me. Although the boy delivered the filled bottle quite late after I had already fallen asleep, I can not forget how comfortable and special Mr Negi made me feel.

Mission Spiti 2015 - Day 01

Delhi – Shimla – Rampur – Choling – Sangla

I had set the Alarm for 02:45 so that we could leave by 03:30. I am not sure why I couldn’t have a long sleep and I could keep in my bed only till 02:15. I went through the routine and after wearing the shoes, I knocked on my brother’s door at 03:00. He was fast asleep and I decided not to bother him. He had been through a lot of work pressure for the past 2 weeks. After checking last minute packing, I started loading my bags in the Car along with the Water Carton and Parantha Rolls. I must have lost track of time when I felt surprised at watching my brother strolling down with his suitcase. Quickly grabbing some toast bites with cold salt Lassi, we pulled out of our Gate at 03:45. Facing heavy truck traffic at the Azadpur Mandi, we took to the by-pass and were speeding on NH-01 through the early dawn when we kept to the left on the Ambala Intersection at 06:15 sharp towards Zirakpur.

Cyclists before Ambala

No sooner that we had crossed the Himalayan Expressway Toll Plaza, we were greeted by a heavy downpour. As the temperature dived on the Dashboard Reader, my brother suggested having a quick look at the rear left tyre. On getting out for a moment in the rain, I confirmed that the air pressure seemed lower than what it was 3 hours ago – we decided to get it checked at the first town on the way where there was no rain. Solan was not under the weather still we sheepishly postponed it to Shimla (remember we had to cross Shimla by 09:00).

Feeling the urge of nature, my brother decided to pull over just before entering Shimla at a hotel where I decided to enter first to start a chit-chat about directions to Shimla by-pass NH-22 however I guess he was used to such tricks and after 2 sentences, on requesting for Wash Room, he guided us thus so without any frills. It was 09:00. We proceeded quickly through Shimla traffic and pulled over at a Puncture Shop on the by-pass itself. Shekhar, the owner of the shop, was absconding and then 10 minutes of rolled parantha breakfast later, we spotted his phone number on the shop banner. He promptly appeared out of nowhere after receiving my call (Damn! Why could we not call him earlier?). He easily alleviated our fears proclaiming “Saab, Valve leakage tha. Maine kas diya hai. Ab koi Problem nahi hogi. Puncutre nahi hai!” I said “Pucca?” He said “Haanji” I said “Aapne Paani se toh dekha hi nahi?” He: “Saab tension mat lo. Aaram se jao” I: “Arre, humein Chitkul Kalpa Tabo Kaza jana hai” (I had developed this style of destination statement over past 2 weeks because nobody in our professional or social or friend or relative circle understood completely what Kinnaur or Spiti Valley meant or where they were. Only some of the enlightened Delhiites knew about Sangla where Banjara Camps has a good campsite.) Shekhar said “No Tension. Sab Thik Hai” On offering his services’ compensation, he politely asked me to pay just Rs 20/-. It was 09:35.

Cyclists before Narkanda

Shimla by-pass took us more time than estimated and although we were earlier glad about keeping our schedule when we entered Shimla at 09:00 but Shimla was not just a milestone to be crossed in a second (like the JEE train velocity questions). Shimla was a behemoth to be crossed in more than an hour. In fact only when we crossed Dhalli, that we actually felt confident that we had crossed Shimla (by-pass seemed so long). It was after Dhalli that we first encountered the milestone which was our regular companion now - Kaurik. The traffic now seemed more due to two factors – the roads were narrower and the day was 10 hours old already. My brother alighted at Hotel Mahamaya Narkanda for a picture. I again went in for a chit-chat telling the manager about our stay here in 1998 and our breakfast here in 2013. He seemed uninterested at his most so I came straight to the point “Wash Room kahan hai?” He showed me the finger – in the direction of the door. I got reminded and thence found my own way to the shady water closet. Quickly getting the picture, we whirled away with the light flowing cool breeze towards our next destination Rampur.

Hotel Mahamaya at Narkanda

Vultures feasting on a Carcass

It was a mutual decision to brake at the Indian Oil Pump that appeared before Rampur. As our watch showed up 14:15 and I got back to the car after paying the Fuel Bill, I saw my brother finishing his 2^nd parantha roll for Lunch quipping “Sit Down fast. I’m driving. You can eat after the car is on the way.” This is how, we could keep up the speed, which is arguable and open to criticism as our first day did not look like a holiday but like a rally. What is unarguable though is that we were enjoying it to the fullest!

The Jeori Green BRO Board welcoming us to the Project Deepak held less excitement for us and as we slowed down to cruise through Wangtu (thereby relishing the feelings), I am not sure whether our nerves started getting relaxed on keeping up the schedule or finally about to cross the Satluj OR they started getting more excited on finally about to cross the Satluj! I still get teary-eyed at thinking about the moment when we could finally cross the Satluj at Wangtu after 17 long years of wait. I can not explain our feelings in words. Please tell me – are we the only ones who can be so crazy that we can get teary eyed over a simple bridge crossing? I suppose if a wish is suppressed in a travel heart for 17 years, it can make that heart crazy and emotional.

Kinnaur Dwar

The first profile photo-shoot of the trip happened at the Kinnaur Gate and the caravan of Drive Videos followed thus. The first video after crossing Wangtu was dedicated by my brother to our father who is the reason for our craziness for travel to non-commercial destinations. He is the reason for all we are today. He had the guts to take us in an 800 from Manali to Chail in a single day back in 1992. He had the guts to take us afar from Shimla to Narkanda and Sarahan way back in 1998. It was our misfortune that he could not take us across Wangtu because of the broken bridge then. My brother pledged that he would repeat this trip with our father and our eldest brother very soon who were right now at home juggling with our workload.

NH-22

NH-22

It must have been 16:30 when we were maneuvered onto the link road which we didn’t realize. On getting stuck at Urni with the oncoming traffic, we were confirmed that this is a 23km link road (in place of 8km NH) and we could find a puncture shop at Choling where this link road will rejoin the NH. Yes, our left rear tyre seemed quite deflated and possibly punctured. It was not until Choling that I actually started cursing the Shimla puncture guy. We should have been wary of the puncture shop because after opening earlier punctures and fixing 5 punctures improperly, the boy confirmed that he was there for just 10 days filling up for her uncle who had gone to the town to get some supplies. Was this a bad day for us? Should we not start any trip on Saturday? Keeping these thoughts aside, as we lapped up 2 more parantha rolls, we arrived at the Karchham Intersection by about 18:45.

Karchham Dam

Karchham Intersection

As we clicked on the boards, a local villager asked for a hitchhike till Sangla. He had missed his last bus and was coming from a wedding. Contrary to our usual policy, we invited him to the back seat, probably because the atmosphere had changed and there was trust in the air. He kept talking enquiring about our hotel stay. On getting delayed at Urni, I had been suggested Kuppa Hotel Rock View by a close friend which we didn’t like too much for the first night. Before deboarding, the villager had divulged to us that he owned 2 hotels in Sangla (Prakash Regency and Hotel Prakash). After visiting Mr Tapan Basu at Igloo Camps, we decided to check into Prakash Regency which as per the locality seemed quite expensive but was quite comfortable too. The hitch-hike paid its fruits in form of discount. Ordering Chilli Paneer, Kadhai Paneer and Dal Fry; we relished the stay there wondering whether we had done the right thing to drive into the night (one of our important rules for any road-trip). After all, we had no choice – Good that we dropped the idea of continuing to Chitkul.

Mission Spiti 2015 - Day ZERO

Day ZERO

Jun 01, 2015 – Jun 19, 2015

Planning – Opposition – Rebellion – Packing!

In a way, we now feel, that the Kashmir Winter 2014 Self-Drive Trip changed the course our lives were being led. It renewed the sense of reason for traveling in our lives. It encouraged us even more to get back to exploring this beautiful country which can never stop surprising you. It also drew immense awe from family & friends which motivated us even more to keep doing such cross-country drives.

BRO Works Today for Your Better Tomorrow

This Journey is dedicated and attributed to the thousands of proud Indians who work for the majestic Border Roads Organization, who keep their lives in extreme peril away from their hometowns and families to do what no other organization in the world does – make most treacherous roads for us mortal travelers; for the elegant Indo-Tibetan Border Police Force and for the mighty Indian Armed Forces, who sacrifice their today for our tomorrow.

Mr Sachin Goel - the Man of Steel

 This Trip is credited to the mighty power, stamina, skill, calmness, maturity and wisdom of my elder brother – the one and only – Mr Sachin Goel, who in my opinion, has the steel not only to drive from Delhi to Munsyari or Sangla in one day but also has the steel to drive a 2WD SX4 with both rear tyres punctured from Kaza to Rohtang in 8 hours. Sitting with him does not, even for a second, scares you due to his driving – such is his skill – be it NH1 or NH05 or NH22.

Mr Ankit Goel - the Dreamer & the Planner

This Tour is courtesy the day dreams of yours truly Mr Ankit Goel, who in my opinion, starts every tour in his dreams; follows it up with Maps – both Paper & Online; meticulously re-searches and re-plans with bcmtouring, maps, excel sheets, email and telephone; gets inspired by fellow crazy travelers around this world – yes, travelers not tourists – and then finally instigates, inspires and excites co-travelers like his brother or friends to just leave the familiarity, comfort and safety of home.

Obviously, these travails would not have been possible without the travel bug provided by our father who took us on self-drive road trips during every vacation, our grandfather who used to drive his Fiat/Ambassador camping around Kashmir during 1970s and our great-grandfather who had left his home after marriage in 1920 for London to pursue Civil Engineering and returned only 4 years later to join the Victorian Engineering Services to build the Road from Jammu to Srinagar from 1924 – 1936 where our grandfather was born.

Last but not the least, this mission would not have been accomplished without the esteemed permission and support of our marvelous mother and our wonderful wives.

Although crossing Satluj at Wangtu had been a suppressed wish since May 1998; one fine day in April this year my brother exclaimed at my state of boredom or loss of reason in life “You don’t worry. Plan the Spiti Trip. We are going to do it this June”. This statement instilled some confidence in me while I started chalking out a travel plan. The Itinerary was already planned since many years. My research took me to gather all the Accommodation options available on the route apart from other nitty-gritty travel items.

Two weeks before the trip was to start, we happened to meet my brother’s fellow IITian – the same BRO Ex En in Delhi and on looking at our map, he recognized places named Pooh & Kaurik because, as he later told, that Pooh-Kaurik Road is of quite an importance and is always in the spotlight in BRO discussion rooms. One week later, he was called upon to help expedite opening of Rohtang La. And voila, the next day, we were confirmed by him that Rohtang had been opened and Kunzum will be cleared in a couple of days.

This time, I did not have to do a lot of research on www.bcmtouring.com because I had already done a lot since past few years. I just knew that we had to leave. We faced immense opposition from our family (esp mom & wives) but eventually we could prevail their fear. Over the last week, whatever time we could take out from our busy schedules, was spent on checking & testing the car and packing the things that we might have been missing in our Checklist. As our favorite mode is, we had not made any bookings anywhere.

This is how our Itinerary looked like:

Day 01: Delhi – Chitkul

Day 02: Rest

Day 03: Chitkul – Sumdo (Kalpa, Shipki La, Kaurik, Nako)

Day 04: Rest

Day 05: Sumdo – Mud (Gue, Dhankar)

Day 06: Mud – Langza (Demul, Komic, Hikkim)

Day 07: Langza – Kaza

Day 08: Kaza – Kibber (Tashigong, Gette, Chicham, Ki)

Day 09: Kibber – ChandraTal

Day 10: ChandraTal – Manali

Day 11: Manali – Delhi

Even on the last day, I politely advised my brother to take it easy and not target Chitkul on Day 1 (like I had done for his Munsyari trip in Jun 2014). He silenced me by reminding me that if he can do Delhi to Munsyari in a single day, then the same is true with Chitkul as well. “After all, its the same 600 kms; so Shimla will be our 09:00 Breakfast Bhimtal and Rampur will be our 14:00 Lunch Almora.” I smiled.

This is how our Itinerary actually got executed:

Day 01: Delhi – Sangla

Day 02: Sangla – Chitkul – Recong Peo – Kalpa

Day 03: Kalpa – Recong Peo – Pooh

Day 04: Pooh – Khab – Shipkila – Sumdo

Day 05: Sumdo – Kaurik – Lepcha – Kaza

Day 06: Kaza – Ki – Kibber – Dhankar – Kaza

Day 07: Kaza – Langza – Hikkim – Komic – Chicham – Kibber – Ki – Kaza

Day 08: Kaza – Kunzum La – Rohtang La – Manali

Day 09: Manali – Delhi

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 09

Ropar – Ambala – Delhi

The mattress was good hard that it passed in a minute for me. Without even thinking about a bath, we proceeded to the Dining Hall to find that the Attendant was asleep. We were actually happy at knowing that and after an hour, we were sure that a delicious breakfast awaited us at our watering hole – Ambala.

 

IIT Ropar Guest House

Bidding goodbyes for the second time, we reached Delhi at a rare arrival time of 2:30PM – thanks to the fog. Thinking about the IIT Ropar Guest House, I assured myself “Whatever happens – happens for Good”.

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 08

Katra – Bhavan – Katra – Hoshiarpur – Ropar 

We had checked into Tridev when we found it to be a little better than Shradhha especially due to enclosed Parking. I had decided to take rest today and my brother had advised me to be ready by 11:30 AM – after all they had started the trek by 4PM. Today, finally, I was to be at the Wheel from Katra to Delhi. However; starting at 1PM from Katra; after the Lunch Halt at Coral River Resort on Punjab side of JK border, we decided to try the Hoshiarpur-Ropar route.

Stuck in a traffic jam in tight & narrow Hoshiarpur at 4:30 PM, we started to collectively realize we might not be able to make it to Delhi even by 2AM. By 6 PM, the fog had become so heavy on the Hoshiarpur-Ropar highway that we had decided to stay the night at Ambala.

The next 3 hours (6-9PM) proved to be a nightmare for us and the toughest driving experience for me so far in my life. The dark fog was so dense that the cars moved in queues of 6-8 with a supposedly confident driver leading the group at 20 kmh. Once in a while, a CH or a PB Car brazenly overtook the queue at a high speed. The leader surely took relief in this coup as the tedious responsibility of the new leader showed its evidence in the lost vigour in his speed. By 8:30 PM, I was so struck with horror that I declared that continuing post Ropar would be a suicide. We have to find a hotel. My brother quickly dialed an international number, followed by a national number, followed by a Ropar number and voila – our Guest House at IIT Ropar was done. My ordeal with the fog ended only when I parked inside the gate of the Guest House.

At 10PM, with the Guest House Kitchen and the Campus Cafeteria closed, all those items we had carried throughout our trip for emergency situations but never used came out of the bag. Electric Stove, Maggi packs, Cup Noodles gave us the fuel for night with the dry-fruits. Though my brother requested the Guest House Attendant to prepare paranthas for breakfast at 7AM, he also assured me that we’d move south if it was not ready. 

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 07

Pahalgam – Achabal – Kokernag – Verinag – Udhampur – Katra 

All good things come to an end and so did our stay at Pahalgam. When we left, the sun shone bright as the temperature read -5 in the Car. As soon as my brother sprayed the cleaner water on the windscreen, it froze. It was better off with dirt than with ice. After we had dispatched a security guard to get some hot water to pour over (like our Dad did during 1991 Shimla Trip), one of the elder stewards vehemently advised us not to lest we wanted the windscreen to crack due to the contrast. We were not sure about this but we followed an easy policy – When in doubt, take the zero risk way. The sun was anyway shining bright and our departure got delayed by no more than 4 minutes when the ice melted away.

 

Frozen Water sprayed over Windshield

Starting to Melt even at -5 degrees

Modern Art by Leaking Pipe

Kokernag

Verinag

Fishes

For Open Public Use

Thanks to directions from Mr Tasadiq (Pahalgam Hotel), our Kokernag-Verinag venture would take us just for 30 km extra before joining the NH1A. So we took the left from Pai Bugh to meet NH1B at Achabal. The name “Kokernag” reminisced us about the 1968 and 1976 month long Kashmir Camping Road Trip stories of our dad and granddad. Standing in front of the Tourism Office, I wondered where must they have put up their camps – where must have my mom-grandmom got water to cook food from – maybe that same corner spring that we would not dare to even drink from today. From the outset, the Kokernag Garden didn’t seem to be extra-ordinary so this time we did mind spending money for the entry ticket. I made another dream promise to myself that maybe someday we would drive along the Chenab from Keylong to Kokernag via Kishtwar & Sinthan Top. Sinthan Top was showing 48km on the Milestone.

The internal one-half lane road to Verinag was scenic despite the barren apple orchards (imagine what would it be during full bloom). The Chashma-Verinag made a much better impression on me vis-à-vis Chashma-e-Shahi. Firstly, it was not so hyped and secondly, the Water was in abundance and evidently flowing naturally from beneath the ground. Many a fishes were fast asleep. In retrospect, I feel Verinag’s sunny weather also had a part to play in contrast to Srinagar’s foggy weather. It also seemed better maintained than its capital city counterpart.

As we joined NH1A, my eyes raced on the road ahead trying to catch the first glimpse of Jawahar Tunnel. Today will be the first time I shall pass it. As the Communication Jammers made their presence felt on our Cellphones, the Entry to Tunnel appeared blaring 2531 and 2547 in the yellow-black. Baglihar Hydel Project was visible in its grandeur (Isn’t it true that every time we travel – we come to see and know so much more and then we realize how little we have seen or known so far?). As we settled in Katra for the night, I quipped to my brother – how possible it came about that we drove around Kashmir valley yet never touched Anantnag.

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 06

Pahalgam – Baisaran – Kashmir Valley – Ganeshbal – Pahalgam 

Next day, relenting to my brother’s insistence, I decided to ignore my ski-bruises and mounted the white horse he had selected for me. The second stop Baisaran was not a pleasant experience for me only due to the hard core selling people keep doing. Desperate into my habit, I struck a controversial political conversation with my horse handler yet again and preached my thoughts of ‘God being one’ and ‘only Work brings money’ to him.

Pretty Shapes at Pahalgam Garden

Baisaran

Kashmir

Joshilay

Pahalgam Hotel

We kept the Kashmir Valley as uneventful as the following rice village & the small waterfall by not dismounting from the horse. Fortunately, there were also no sellers here. Such a big relief! However, the evening routine was not much different from the earlier one. 

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 05

Pahalgam – Aru – Chandanwadi – Betaab – Pahalgam 

Our day started early and I had to literally pressurize the restaurant staff to serve us our breakfast. Due to the cold, entire staff was lazy to wake up and work before 9 AM. The food was absolutely delicious and breathtaking (true to its reputation) – and we overate through the dosa, poha, parantha, cutlet and baked beans till our stomachs started aching.

 

Frozen Lidder

Gutted Block at Pahalgam Hotel
where the movie Khamosh was shot in Fall 1984

Our Bukhari bellowing out White Smoke
No, The Pope hasn't been selected

Meditating at Top of the Aru

Leg indicates it belonged to Equine family
Though I believe it is difficult for any single carnivore
to eat up so much in a Single Night

Like Amitabh Bachchan handles Ranjeeta

We decided to return from this point
Onwards there were no Human foot prints only these

Our Horse at first Step to Amarnath Trek

Ruin of the Bathing Slide of Sunny Deol

Driving to Aru was a lesser experience than climbing the Hilltop. The last para from the title song of the movie ‘Satte Pe Satta’ haunted us while I gathered in the views. Our moment of the day came at Chandanwadi where we got the opportunity to drive our beloved SX4 over snow right upto the first step of Amarnath trek.

Betaab Valley, not to our liking, has been commercialized with an army of ‘Guides’ selling their services. Contrary to the folktales, I strongly believe the original structures from the movie are either the ones that stand rotten in a corner or have vanished. Soon finishing our day-trip, we returned to a dose of the Great Russian Drink with hot served snacks as we decided to extend our stay there for a day. We decided to have our dinner there only for the tandoor breads that we had been missing all through our trip so far.