Mission Spiti 2015 - Day 06

Kaza – Langza – Ki – Kibber – Kaza – Dhankar – Kaza

Waking up, I was feeling much better while the cold rainy breeze swept through the lodge. Getting ready with the stove heated water was not as difficult as I thought it to be – I recalled my days in MNNIT Allahabad & FMS Delhi Hostel. Lapping up the Tea-Toast, we geared up to drive to Langza in our freshly rain-washed SX4.

Topping-up at Kaza

World's Highest Retail Outlet

The landscape looked very different in the cloud color than the yellow sunlight’s color. We must have been 2.5 km before Langza village when our car got stuck in deep slush and for the first time in our lives, we realized what slush actually means. My brother asked me to get off with my mobile immediately so that if the car goes down the road, I will be in a position to call for help. After getting off, as I took my first step, I could not – 2.5 inches of slush was stuck on my shoes’ bottom and it felt like somebody had tied heavy weights (like Jo Jeeta Wohi Sikander cycling practice session). So panicked we were that I ran at my best manageable speed to call for help from a team of laborers hidden from the heavy rain in a nearby camp. Not willing to get drenched, they came out very reluctantly and promised to come for help if something happens (in their view, the slush was easily negotiable).

Approaching Langza

Approaching Langza

Approaching Langza

My brother could negotiate the car out of the slush and we decided to try Ki-Kibber route which we had been told was black top. Yes, that, it indeed was and was a treat to our eyes as well as our tyres because of being freshly washed by the rain. The color of the atmosphere was rain white, a good change from the dusty yellow color we had been driving through since the last 5 days. As we pulled over into the Ki Gompa Parking, we did not realize how far we had to climb to get to the Fortress. Due to my urge to answer a minor nature’s call, a large group of Caucasians were ahead in queue for us and it did take a long time for the front-benchers in that group to understand what Buddhism was all about, what Spiti region was all about and then what Ki Gompa was all about. We were not as good students of Buddhism as they were and finding a subtle opportunity to skip the queue, we took the plunge getting ahead of them in the sight-seeing game. Proceeding with the Old Prayer Chamber as well, I quickly got down to my main target inside Ki Gompa – the GLHT. My brother hesitated – and even knowing that I am much more miser than him – I said its free and we’re welcome here for freebies unlike Delhi thereby relieving her of the hesitation.

Approaching Ki Gompa

Welcome to Ki Gompa

New Prayer Hall

From the Roof of Ki Gompa

Interesting Metal faces on the Roof of Ki Gompa

Our Horse SX4 in the Ki Gompa Parking Lot

The GLHT at Ki Gompa

The Ginger Lemon Honey Tea was the best hot beverage I have had in my life so far and it further re-affirmed my cultural concept that one should always survive on the local food and water when traveling because I strongly believe there is a reason why Chinese cuisine has maida based noodles with soya sauce and soup whereas Tamil cuisine has a lentil based dosa and rice based idli with spicy sauces and sambar. One could argue that cuisine is based on locally grown or available products which is a perfect argument but I would like to argue back that the climate and topography are the reasons for the growth of those vegetables or availability of those kind of animals. The GLHT was a blessing and warmed us to the bowels, quite literally, in that severe cold which was being further precipitated by the wet precipitation.

Ki Gompa

We proceeded to the Kibber village and the cut towards Tashigong & Gette showed a grim state of slush. We had earlier planned to stay the night at Tashizom Guest House but that was when we had a travel plan of 1.5 days. With slush cutting short our day-trip to just 4 hours, we decided to just click pictures outside Kibber and then have a Thukpa Lunch at Tashizom which, at 13:30, again gave us enough warmth required for the next travel slot. The rooms, we visited, were a treat (especially the Family Suite with the Bukhari) and I wondered how my wife and kids would definitely enjoy a stay here – provided they can come with me sometime in the future.

Trek Start Point from Kibber to Prang La

Tashizom Guest House at Kibber

You only get the Signal at this point at Tashizom

Kibber

Kibber-Tashigong Link Road

On my brother’s advise, I called back Jamaica and requested him to keep a small car ready for our Dhankar visit, which was ready when we drove back into Kaza. We declared that we would have to forego the Sagnam-Kud tour now. The Dhankar Tour was quite eventless but I did not forget to click the Attargu diversion picture. The Dhankar Gompa & Village, contrary to my expectation, had a tinge of difference from Tabo or Ki. I had not felt this difference between the Gompas of Hemis, Thiksey, Lamayuru, etc. We returned to visit the Kaza Monastery right in front of our Room and we again bumped into the RJ-27 Innova. Thereon, what followed was a nice camaraderie between the 3 of them and the 2 of us. They enquired about ChandraTal and we towed them into the KayCee Lodge to have a chat with Jamaica. After laying down a lot of permutations and combinations, it was finally decided that we would forego ChandraTal and rather complete the local Village tour in a local SUV which was arranged by Jamaica. On his advice, we proceeded to Deyzor for Dinner, also because Deyzor was the only property in Kaza with a Generator.

Gorge on the way to Attargu

Diversion for Pin Valley

Dhankar Gompa at the brink of Collapse

Confluence of Pin into Spiti

Eroded Formations at Dhankar Gompa

Dhankar Village

Wildflowers before Kaza

Quechua Tent

Quechua Tent

Son of our Driver (Owner of Homestay)

Kaza Monastery

Kaza Monastery

And to our surprise, what property it was. Deyzor looked like an Oasis in that cold desert. The Thukpa, I ordered for everybody, was the best I have had so far and the sauce accompanying the Momos was nothing like what you get at Delhi stalls. The delicious food helped the night come down heavy on us by putting us to a good sleep.

Mission Spiti 2015 - Day 05

Sumdo – Kaurik – Lepcha – Sumdo – Gue – Tabo – Kaza

Overnight, my painful diarrhea didn’t let me sleep and made me visit the rest room multiple times. My brother asked about my condition in the morning at which I replied negative and he promptly requested for onsite Nursing Assistant who observed my tongue and gave me ORS along with Norcin TZ for my stomach cramps. I had just puked while trying to brush so skipped the shave and bath routine going directly to the toast-chai plate.

Looking North from Sumdo

Looking South from Sumdo

Diarrhea is not a Good Sickness to pick when Travelling

Dining Hall & Lounge

The 2IC Sir definitely must have been surprised at seeing us ready “before” 08:00 and instructed the Chef to keep the breakfast ready by 09:00 till we return from Kaurik. I balked at the one hour return estimate and enquired with him but he shrugged like it was nothing for him. We were already getting jitters at knowing the fact that he himself would need to go to show us the Border Post. We kept silent and just waited ready on the main road for his next instructions.

And to our big surprise, he himself took the driving wheel and cruised past the bifurcation towards Kaurik. We had kept our expectations low that we’d be able to see Kaurik only but not Lepcha. However, as we left the Kaurik – 0 Milestone, our souls silently regaled from within, at the thought of reaching Lepcha very soon. And technically, the road did not even end at Lepcha. It went to the Left of the Border Ridge for a village and a U-Turn separate road. He said after taking the U-turn: “Look that is the Border Post. Make it Quick.”

We jumped at the realization and then out of the Blue Gypsy running almost at the historic moment of our lives towards the Border Post. Running in our minds – our actual on-ground speed was a meager 3 kmph though. As we entered the Lepcha border post, the memories from internet pictures flashed in front of me and I started comparing. I kept touching the point markers all around as if recalling them from my last visit here in my previous life. As my brother was cleared by an Assistant to click pictures of the Tibetan Villages Ghumar & Churup, the 2IC Sir entered the post forbidding the Camera. Hence, no pictures!

We were briefed about the situation, circumstances and other usual things about the Chinese by the ITBP personnel present there and even pointed us to a Chinese JCB clearing the rubble to make way for the road. As we turned around, we just kept relishing the moment that we were in. Since we were being driven around by such a senior official, we could not gather the courage to ask him to stop at Lepcha – 0 milestone or Kaurik – 0 milestone. Albeit, the ice broke and the talking started on our way back as he even braked the car very hard to show us an Ibex. We again jumped outside the gypsy but the ibex was gone down the cliff. We chased it and caught a glimpse but could not get a picture.

Sir then continued to tell us the legend of the Sugar Point which tells about a sepoy shouting “Chini Aaye Chini Aaye” of which his British Officer asked for translation and the other Indian officer translated “Sugar has come. Sugar has come.” And hence, the Sugar point came to be known so because the Chinese Army had proceeded to this point. In fact, after visiting there, we came to know that the Road and Indian territory ended at Sugar Point after Kaurik where you can see the original International Border Fence and that is why the Road Chainage officially ends at Kaurik. Later during the 1960s, the territory from Kaurik to Lepcha was captured from China (We were surprised ourselves at this fact considering we always take Indian Army lightly as compared to the People’s Liberation Army of China).

Upon our return, we joined the Officers’ table for Breakfast as the team prepared to patrol their road segment today. After a quick picture, 2IC Sir appointed a local to accompany us up to Gue Village to ensure we get the temple key beforehand and we did from a lady of the village. The 2 people on a road cabling job assignment who had taken a hitch-hike with us from Sumdo to Kaza expressed their overwhelmed shock at visiting the Gue Mummy. The village itself seemed like a quaint place to live.

Rotating the Head-Girl's Wheel at Gue Village

Gue Mummy

Gue Mummy

Our Horse atop Gue Temple Citadel

The Sumdo BRO Employee & The Head-Girl of Gue Village

Gue Village from Gue Temple

Gue Dwar

Gue to Tabo

Rohtang Top showing its Name for the First Time at Tabo

Continuing our journey, we reached Tabo at 13:00 and as we made our way to the Monastery, we found it closed. We were already quite tired – probably not with just today – but with the trip and needed rest (especially me with the diarrhea). This was the primary reason that I had requested my brother to skip Dhankar, Mud & Langza and straight away get to Kaza today. Having made up our mind to skip the closed Tabo monastery also, somebody told us that it was closed for Lunch till 14:00. We used this time to have a Thukpa lunch at the Monastery Guest House and try locating the Forest Station about which I had heard from one of my Uncles-in-Law who had once been stationed at the Lari Station.

Estd AD 996

Tabo Monastery

Sachinji pointing to the Ancient Tabo Caves on the Cliff

Thukpa Lunch at Tabo Monastery Guest House

Time to Cross the Spiti: Tabo Bridge

I was, meanwhile, struggling with my ORS water bottle and coverless Camera when our wait was finally answered by a harried monk at 14:30. Here, I want to share with you, a thought that came to my mind after observing 3 monks who entered the Monastery Guest House for their afternoon Tea with Sunglasses and Large mobile phones in their hands (one of them was the latest iPhone). I later remarked “I take priesthood (any religion) as a life-choice of sacrifice or as a practice of contentment – limit tending to zero needs. I might be wrong but somehow the swanky shades and large smart phones do not match up with a content/sacrificial life. I also recall a monk whom I had observed at Leh Shanti Stupa back in 2007 helping a young Caucasian woman climb the staircase openly flirting with her. To me, this was very close to the kind of blasphemy I have observed in Hindu Temples and Muslim Mosques since childhood and have developed an aversion towards them since then. Is this religious treason catching up on Buddhism as well? Albeit, I have always argued that hunger is the most supreme power of all – so much that it forces a Buddhist non-believer in violence kill the available animal for food in harsh non-arable terrains”

Spiti carving out the Landscape before Kaza

Don't Be Gama in the Land of Lama

Neat Structure before Shichling

Coming back to our journey, it was a good fulfillment to finally take a complete round of monastery. Not a fan of paintings, I tried to instill their importance in me by imagining the number of years they have endured. Driving along the Spiti and appreciating the uncountable Sarchu-like eroded formations, we soon came across the Kaza Gate and the Authorized Maruti Service Station adjacent to the BRO Camp. As directed, we proceeded directly to the Kay Cee Lodge opposite the Monastery and unloaded into the best room on the GF itself, just in time. This was to be our base for the next 3 nights.

Eroded Cliffs before Kaza

Welcome to Kaza!

As soon as we settled in, there seemed to be a barrage of young hitch-hikers reaching Kaza from different part of North India. Not very late into the evening, the 2IC Sir walked into our Lodge to bid a final goodbye for the trip. Late into the evening when the power had departed, the travelers got talking in the candle light. We met a young girl, Yeshaswini, a doctor couple’s daughter from Delhi along with her 4 male friends cribbing about how none of her female friends joined her for such an arduous trip. We met 3 young men, cousins, from different towns of Punjab – Bathinda, Morinda & Patiala – wearing shorts in 10°C, who had hitch-hiked their way for free from Chandigarh till Kaza. Yeshaswini joined Ritesh (the temporary cook at the Lodge) in the kitchen while others chalked out a fund-raising plan to sponsor their onward trek to ChandraTal and their return home. It was an awareness hour for me realizing that one does not need the money or a detailed plan for traveling – just the will! We retired in complete darkness for the day, blowing out the candles, to rest for a journey that had been so good so far.