Mission Ladakh Zanskar Siachen 2007 - Day 11

Leh – Karu – Sakti – Chang La – Lukung – Leh

As decided, we picked CMP Officer from Alpha Mess again at 6 AM sharp. Learning from the previous day, all of us had decided to decrease the clothing because of hot weather. How could we have imagined what was in store for us ahead? As we proceeded, Prakash cruised ahead past the Taxi Check Post – without stopping – shouting “Army” out of the window. We could see his exhilaration on driving one of the VIP vehicles in Leh, right now.

I had done the mistake of having Tea without cookies in Leh, and as we approached Zingral, I started experiencing pangs of Acidity. My stomach was paining excessively and I needed some food urgently. I decided to have Eno only after breakfast. Meanwhile, during rest, I got to know that due to some miscommunication, No arrangement had been made for our Breakfast and there was a Major General, with his family, on the way. Luckily, soon we were served Breakfast and my stomach ache started subsidizing.

Mist and Rains and Snow as we climb the Mighty Chang La...

The ascent to Chang La is really tough and steeper than any other passes, we did. That is the reason behind calling it “The Mighty Chang La”. When we reached there, the weather was very bad – It was extreme cold – surrounded by Clouds and Snow everywhere – and the precipitation was changing from rain to snow without any warning in a matter of seconds. I had a pressure to piss for quite some time and when I tried to do it there, I could not. I tried hard but I could not. I gave up.

We started descending and soon, we crossed the Check post at Tangtse. We were just sitting mute expecting the sights of lake when it first appeared. As soon as I saw the signboard saying “First View of World Famous Pangong Lake 4 KM” I asked him to stop and went running to click pictures. Now, it was just a matter of few minutes, when we would be standing at the shores of the lake. When we took the final right turn towards Lukung, there it lied – The Largest Highest Brackish Lake in the World – Pangong Tso. The L-shaped Lake is 145 km long and 5 km wide, and two-thirds of its portion is with China. When the car stopped, we immediately ran towards the shore and got ourselves clicked. I removed my cap and to my distress, the wind was so strong that within few minutes, my ears started paining severely. I replaced my Cap.
Our CMP Officer asked us to go for boating right now as we are the first ones and there is no crowd right now. We agreed and fastened the Life – Jackets. Leaving my bag on the shore only, we boarded the Boat – a Military Boat. As the engine roared, we were shipped in the middle of the lake and then the Boatman stopped the engine and started telling us the facts about the lake. He showed us the point where India ends and China starts. He told us the names of the Birds flying there – including the Chinese Seagull.

Those 2 opposing slopes protruding in the Lake form the Indo-China border!

I was still trying to get back my senses and believe that it was all happening with me actually, when the wonderful ride ended. The lake was changing color – every few minutes. There was no amount of pictures that could capture the beauty! We waited for Prakash to come back and take us ahead to Spangmik. Now, he acted smart and told us that this is Spangmik – little did he know that I was smarter; but I did not say anything because everybody else also seemed less interested in going ahead. We went a little further and on our return, entered a Bay formation; where we got ourselves clicked numerous times and shot quite a few Videos also.

We proceeded for Lunch at Lukung Military Camp – Excellent Rajma with White Rice on the shores of Pangong Tso; after which Farhan and Hari went to climb Garnet Hill. On the other hand, Bikiran and I decided not to fly as much as them, just after lunch. We went on looking for our CMP Officer, who didn’t have his lunch because of money. We insisted on paying for him but he decline outright.

On the return, however, we made sure he had something. This time, however, the road was blocked due to some Landslide just ahead of Chang La. We crossed Chang La and joined the short queue – waiting for the road to clear. I was tired and the high altitude was affecting me when suddenly, I heard a strong loud blast. Alone in the car, I was shaken so much that I climbed out immediately. Our CMP Officer went ahead to enquire about the situation, and returned with a band news that the Blast had been unable to clear the road. A second – even stronger blast – supposedly cleared the road and it was around 1 hour, when we were allowed to pass.

On crossing Zingral, I asked Prakash to stop at the point where the road bifurcates to Wari La and then to Agham village and Khalsar. I had seen a signboard, near Sakti, telling all the distances so I thought it would be a good catch. He did, as told, and to our surprise, we found that Wari La is the 4th Highest Pass in the World. We smiled to ourselves, feeling proud of the achievement of BRO.

Wari La - 4th Highest Motorable Pass - also in BRO's belt!

As soon as I told him to take to the Army’s Transport Company for Billing, he got distressed immediately and started calling the Car’s Owner. He started blabbering and showing his tantrums, although very mild but we chose to remain silent. After dropping our CMP Officer, we reached the company and were asked to wait in the Officers’ Mess but when the wait grew longer; I decided to go out myself to the Office and settle the account. I could see the agony on Prakash’ face but one thing was sure – The loss, he is cribbing about, is the Opportunity Cost – not any actual Cost. C’mon 16/- per kilometer is not less.

We were asked by the Officer there to go to Uncle’s house for scheduled Dinner and meanwhile, the final payment amount would be finalized and we can make the payment to Uncle. Prakash was asked to drop us at Alpha Mess and we didn’t say anything. We could not thank him properly also due to the overall circumstances growing around but we couldn’t have helped it. An extremely delicious food awaited us at Uncle’s House, where our friend and her Mom attended us while Uncle was busy with his Guests. Aunty even exclaimed “Today, you look really tired, unlike previous occasions”. We explained the delay to Chang La blockage and the wait at Billing Office.
Uncle explained to me how difficult it was getting to arrange for a transport to travel from Tso Moriri to Pang. He told me “In case, nothing is arranged, there would be 2 options – Either, do a Day trip or give it amiss”. Our meal ended with the tasty dessert and since it was quite late, I asked for a drop home. Uncle “hijacked” some other gypsy and dropped us home.