Thursday, June 28, 2007

Mission Ladakh Zanskar Siachen 2007 - Day 13

Karzok – Polakongka La – Tso Kar – Pang – Sarchu – Darcha – Patseo

Last Day in Ladakh started at 5 AM. The hues of the lake were astounding – we had a quick tea and some cookies and boarded the Car. On our way ahead, we were supposed to cross Polakongka La and Tso Kar before meeting the Leh – Manali Highway.
A Woman guiding Pashmina Goats (and a School in background)
The Shooting Hot Spring
The road, for most part, was a dirt track. We retraced till Sumdo and then took the other way. It was difficult to believe my eyes as we kept staring as a passing School. Soon, we found another Hot Spring, from which hot water was shooting out, rather than oozing out. As we proceeded, the terrain changed and we climbed Polakongka La. A small Tibetan temple with flags all around, amidst stones and a dirt track was all that was visible on the pass. Few other small lakes dotted the way to our next destination. When we reached, it took us few seconds to believe that this was Tso Kar. There was not even a single person in sight – Not a single person! Rigzim asked us to walk to the shore – and when we insisted on taking the Car – he replied “It’s not hard soil and the tyres get jammed in the quick soil”. We agreed to walk and thought it would not be more than 800m. However, when we started, the shores didn’t seem under reach until 20 minutes later – that too at a constant Brisk Walk speed.
Tso Kar
The line dividing the Dirt Track and Quick Soil
Touched the shore of Tso Kar
Rock Salt (Sendha Namak)
Trying to find Stability over Quick Rock Salt Soil
The soil near the lake was very quick and was stinking due to some obnoxious gas. The adjoining shores were covered with Rock Salt, which initially seemed snow to some of us. My shoes, which I had realized were broken at Siachen, were letting lot of that quick soil to get inside as my feet started drowning in the soil. The only solution was to retain as much of your weight with you as possible and walk faster.
Walking Back - Foot in Foot, cautiously
Back to the Car - Tired!
Quickly clicking some pictures, we walked back to the car and the entire trip took us more than 45 minutes. Phew – We were tired! At a distance, we found a small settlement with a Gompa where a Lama asked us for a hitchhike. We couldn’t help him as our Car’s back was full with luggage. The most virgin part of tourist Ladakh was what followed Tso Kar. This was the km stretch where we did not see even a single tourist – only 6 PWD workers. Terrain changed dramatically and it took us time to realize that we had entered More Plains. We were back from a different side and soon, joined the Highway.

And now, the entire route was being retraced. All of us felt the pressures of Nature’s Calls; we stopped at Pang Transit Camp – the World’s highest Transit Camp to answer them. The Officer there feasted me to Suji Halwa there – it seemed heaven with that hunger. As told by Uncle, I arranged for a message to pass to Sarchu Transit Camp for lunch. Immediately after Pang, the bridge on the Pang river was blocked due to some repair work going on.

We stopped at Sarchu Transit Camp for lunch. Although we were late, they took special pains to treat us with the delicious homely food. As told, we had crossed the JK-HP border and after paying the bribe at the newly created HP Check point, proceeded to Patseo. It took us a little time to get a room at Patseo but I must say – due to the rains and greenery there, that place seemed to be the best Hill Station. Surrounded by high peaks all around, the place looked like a miniature eye as compared to the vast expanse of Mountain peaks.

What a Name!
The Officer-in-Command invited us to have dinner when we stepped out in Bathroom Slippers. It was quite late when we realized that this was a major mistake as we read the Rules at a notice board. The Assistant there, however, calmed us and said “Now you’re here and there are no Officers, Peace!” We enjoyed our dinner and went in deep slumber. This would be our last night in the lap of this natural Air Conditioner.

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