Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 04

Srinagar – Shankaracharya – Chashma-e-Shahi – Nishat Bagh – Gagangir – Bij Behara – Pahalgam 

We left at 6:50 AM for Shankaracharya since we found out that would be the only place open at 7 AM. Checking in with CRPF, we were astounded to find the huge number of steps we had to undertake to reach the temple plinth. I surely lost my breath several times – the view was blocked with the heavy fog – and while returning, I felt my bronchial tract not behaving properly.

As we put in the gear, the CRPF jawans came running to stop us. We stopped worried about something we might have done wrong but they politely requested us to take a Tiffin for their colleagues posted downhill. We gladly took their Tiffin from Top to Bottom & I kept guessing what that peculiar smell was (surely that wasnt paratha or achar). As we approached exit, my brother guessed it right – it was probably eggs or omelettes. After handing over the Tiffin, I heaved a sigh of relief at having been able to control my hunger.

As we proceeded towards Chashme-e-Shahi, expectingly the road was blocked due to counting going on at Centaur Hotel and on persistent requesting, the JK Police warned us in a complete filmy style ‘If you utter another word, I will put you behind bars for one day without charge on suspicion under the T Act’. Fortunately, an Army man came to our help and directed us to go around the blockade in a inverted-square-C fashion via the Lalit. We had to request the policemen at 2 more barricades and they let us go. A tough one came at the entrance of the Royal Spring – the JK Policeman asked us straight ‘Daru Hai?’ My brother affirmed. The cop seized them and we didnt know for sure if we would get it back. On asking, he confirmed he would not. We explained that the weather required us weaklings to get a small sip of the liquor otherwise we would not survive. He relented and gave us our bottles back for a fee. My brother nodded at me and I fished out a 100 INR note. He felt glad. We drove on.

Chashma-e-Shahi

The barren Chashma

Nobody except 3 of Us

While visiting the Chashma-e-Shahi, we constantly kept reminding ourselves that the nearby park Dara Shikoh is aptly named because this is the place where the eldest & favorite son of Shah Jahan ‘Dara Shikoh’ (also the more deserving heir prince to Mughal Throne) was killed and buried on instructions of Aurangzeb (in consultation with his sister Roshanara). Since I’ve known this, I watch Roshanara’s grave everyday during my morning walk with a different perspective. The Spring and then the Nishat was absolutely deserted without a single soul. My brother exclaimed – you would not be able to visit these gardens with only 3 of us here ever. The barren-ness of Nishat left us little wish for Shalimar and we re-fuelled to get on our way to Sonamarg.

As we inched north, landscapes became prettier with snow capped higher ridges. I started checking the election results to keep us informed if we would need to turn back sooner. As we crossed Ganderbal, the results came out in accordance with the wishes of the majority junta – PDP. 

Foggy Icy Dal Lake

Shikaras flowing over Dal

Gagangir

Detour to Gurez before Ganderbal

A heap of villagers beat our windows as we crossed Gagangir – we relented. They sold their horse trips, sledge trips and ATV rides. We had decided that we would turn around from here. On the way back, the euphoria of PDP victory was even more evident as we kept driving steadily through the barrage of people and party workers. The turn to Gurez enticed me constantly but better sense prevailed and we didnt take the detour to Gurez albeit I stopped to take the picture and promised to return.

We crossed through Srinagar and took the awkward out-of-nowhere left from Bijbehara to Pahalgam. As confirmed by Sunnyji, it was supposed to be a good route and after the first kilometer, it proved to be so. The final leg of that road connecting with KP road was shown as a trail by the GPS but gladly the cops’ and villagers’ advise was true and we joined the main road to Pahalgam just before the deserted Amarnath Camps.

My brother had returned here after 17 years and his elation fell through his mouth. I also felt much better due to the sunshine after the gloominess of Shopian, Pulwama, Srinagar, et al. After visiting Pahalgam Hotel and Mountview, we decided to go in for a suite at Pahalgam Hotel. My friends, I could now dedicate an entire blog on Pahalgam Hotel (please check my review on tripadvisor). Our stay there was one of the best stays I have had in my life so far in India. The amenities, the service, the food, the views – and above all, the gentleness of the service staff combined with the value and respect they provide you is what made our stay different. This respect of a Customer is what we crave for, in this country, and do not get – especially in peak seasons. Abroad, in developed as well as developing countries that I have travelled, you get that respect that a Customer should get – whether it be a Hotel or a Showroom.

We visited Punjabi Rasoi hoping we might get to meet Sunnyji after we couldn’t in Srinagar but we knew he wouldn’t visit most probably in this off season. Fortunately, it was open and his manager Shaukat catered us well. Alas, the Tandoor was non-functional here also and we missed the Naans. The food was really nice – more than the Punjabi Rasoi & Tadka at Srinagar. With tired bones, my sleep drowned me in the cozy sofa-bed.