Mission Spiti 2015 - Day 04

Pooh – Khab – Shipki La – Khab – Sumdo

The chef and the caretaker took to our needs very well providing us with good paranthas. As we packed our luggage, we observed how duties were being assigned and coaltar drums were being loaded for the day at 08:00. We also spotted the JE, who was in Kurta-Pyjama last night, in Light Green BRO official dress working in a very stressful environment assigning duties quickly to avoid loss in work progress. He took us to meet the Workshop OC but he was too busy inside and gave a go ahead to take his Gypsy from Khab to Shipki La. We proposed that we’ll take our own car till Khab and park it there rather than coming back to Pooh. So it was decided that the Blue GREF Gypsy will meet us at the Crusher before Khab (8km after Pooh) and we’ll park our car there.

A Typical Morning at BRO at 08:00

Assignment of Duties & Loading of Coal Tar drums

As we climbed the road to Shipki La from Khab crusher, it very much looked like Kah Zing (which I didnt know till then). The Namgia village looked elegant with some green patches around and there was another village on the opposite side of Satluj of which nobody knew the name but what BRO people knew that there was only a trail (a 5 hour trek from the Highway) to reach that village. Obviously, the village must be covered with snow and cut-off from the highway for 8 months of the year.

Gateway to Namgia Village

Namgia Village in the Foreground;
Another Village in the Background on the other Side of Satluj

As we took the turn after the Shipki La Zero milestone, the Army Camps became visible in all their silence and grace. The arrival of a GREF gypsy had already been informed between the ITBP posts but our arrival was informed to the Commandant of the ITBP and Lieutenant of the Bihar Regiment who promptly invited us in their personal residence lounge. What followed thenceforth was a healthy and hearty discussion about everything in the world from Adolf Hitler to USSR, from Ashoka to Modi and from USA to BCMTouring. We were surprised to have such wonderful and civilian friendly company at such a location. In their words and from their body language, they were also really glad in having us over – primarily due to the simple fact that unlike average Delhiites – not only did we express gratitude, respect and appreciation for BRO, ITBP & Armed Forces but also we possessed a good and rational knowledge of world history and culture which interested both the gentlemen there.

Shipki La

3 hours later ; at about 12:00; when our conversation finally reached a logical pause, we were advised to visit the La – the Shipki Pass which was still 250m ahead. As we walked towards the OP (the Observation Post), we could feel breathlessness mixed with the excitement at the prospect of looking at China up close. From the OP, we could clearly see the Shipki Village which, as per true story, was earlier in India but was let go by the Indian PM in 1968 – Mrs Indira Gandhi – upon asking the wish of the Village Head. The final Border fence was just 10 feet away from us and further along the fence was Indira Gate which had gaps of 4 inches between the steel bars. I took the opportunity and inserted my Leg through the Gate onto the soil of China. Felt Exhilirated !!! The Officer laughed. My brother smiled. I invited him but he hesitated.

I was so busy doing the Border Sunny Deol act that I forgot to ask what my brother asked the Officer i.e. the location of the Chinese observation post. That post didn’t exist. The Chinese had installed 360° Cameras and any unusual activity created alert alarms in the HQ of the PLA. It was well past 13:00 and the OP Log report was due verbal submission over Army Phones. What an irony, we were told, that the Mobile Tower in front of us across the border had the ability to make our dead mobile phones work, provided our International Roaming was activated. It felt jittery to think that the time zone an inch away was two and a half hours ahead – such is the magical affect of International Land Borders. This was an IB – an International Border and hence was peaceful unlike the LAC – Line of Actual Control.

Short on breath, as we strolled back to the Camp, we felt sad at the thought of leaving this peaceful proud place for the road ahead that led to Kaza followed by Manali and then back to Delhi. As we made our exit, I realized my Camera Cover was missing but we were getting late and, out of hesitation, decided to continue with our journey ahead. Stopping for a while to grab Shipki La Zero Milestone, we continued our journey in silence. I was worried how I would take care of the camera for rest of the trip without the padded cover to which my brother pacified me. I was also worried about the fuel can that I had left inside the car on the hot road silently bearing the worst fear.

Thankfully, we found our car intact and after expressing our gratitude to BRO 68 RCC and the Satluj river, proceeded towards our destination for the night – Sumdo. The drive to Sumdo was as unpredictable as it could be. The stop at Nako was scheduled but both of us found it over-hyped and worthless – simple reason being that the lake was extremely dirty, stinking, difficult to approach and surrounded on all sides by dirty hotels and smelly guest houses. The village Nako reminded me the ugly side of the Tibetan people which is filth and stink that is surprisingly missing from Leh or Kaza. Exiting the village, we saw the DL zoomcar XUV parked along with the 5 DL bikers with support Innova. Yes, the trip had started making us bump into the fellow Level 5 travelers time and again.

Khab Bridge: Confluence of Spiti into Satluj

Cyclist climbing the way to Malling

Chainage 440 on Ambala-Kaurik Road

Chainage 440 on Ambala-Kaurik Road

Border Roads Organization

Nako Lake: Difficult to avoid the Filth

the dying Nako Lake

The climb to Malling, we had just crossed, was nowhere as unpredictable as the descent that was yet to show its face. Crossing the Malling village was not less difficult than crossing Azadpur however when we saw 5 "Check Your Brakes" boards in a row within a kilometer, we sensed there must be a steep descent coming up. And yes it did as our car dived into what seemed to be a deep dive. The descent again took us close to Spiti river before making us cross the river second last time for the day.

Moonland above Chango Village

Approaching Chango

The board "Welcome to Spiti Valley" came quite late, in my opinion, just before the Sumdo bridge. It was only after spending 3 dark nights in Kaza that I understood the true meaning of Spiti Valley. When I insisted to stop for the Board photoshoot, my brother took the opportunity to empty the 5L Petrol before he took my picture and in the process, we also found ourselves at the receiving end of the advise from BRO personnel about the frequent falling stones from the cliff besides us. The personnel in the GREF blue truck had just been dispatched from the 108 RCC which had its base just across the Sumdo bridge.

Topping up the Fuel Tank just before Sumdo

Welcome to Spiti

While we were registering our details at the Sumdo bridge check-post, we again bumped into the 5 DL bikers with Innova Support. Whereas they continued towards Gue after getting their picture clicked with the Kaurik milestone, we had our night halt planned at Sumdo BRO Officers’ guest house. Upon entering the peaceful and clean facility, we were told that the OC Sir had left for vacation and must be nearing Rampur by now. The 2IC Sir, to our good luck, had been requested (or instructed) to take care of us for the evening, night and the morning Lepcha tour.

The on-duty Auditor for BRO from Jeori soon joined us for Supper as my brother opened his bottle to facilitate the hosts. Throughout the day, I had been suffering with stomach cramps which had culminated into extreme diarrhea at the top of Shipki La; as a result of which I decided to just have simple lentil soup while others enjoyed the scrumptious north indian food. At the end of the dinner, we were asked to be ready by 08:00 the next day. Our corneas widened which, I suppose, we were able to hide from our hosts.