Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 04

Srinagar – Shankaracharya – Chashma-e-Shahi – Nishat Bagh – Gagangir – Bij Behara – Pahalgam 

We left at 6:50 AM for Shankaracharya since we found out that would be the only place open at 7 AM. Checking in with CRPF, we were astounded to find the huge number of steps we had to undertake to reach the temple plinth. I surely lost my breath several times – the view was blocked with the heavy fog – and while returning, I felt my bronchial tract not behaving properly.

As we put in the gear, the CRPF jawans came running to stop us. We stopped worried about something we might have done wrong but they politely requested us to take a Tiffin for their colleagues posted downhill. We gladly took their Tiffin from Top to Bottom & I kept guessing what that peculiar smell was (surely that wasnt paratha or achar). As we approached exit, my brother guessed it right – it was probably eggs or omelettes. After handing over the Tiffin, I heaved a sigh of relief at having been able to control my hunger.

As we proceeded towards Chashme-e-Shahi, expectingly the road was blocked due to counting going on at Centaur Hotel and on persistent requesting, the JK Police warned us in a complete filmy style ‘If you utter another word, I will put you behind bars for one day without charge on suspicion under the T Act’. Fortunately, an Army man came to our help and directed us to go around the blockade in a inverted-square-C fashion via the Lalit. We had to request the policemen at 2 more barricades and they let us go. A tough one came at the entrance of the Royal Spring – the JK Policeman asked us straight ‘Daru Hai?’ My brother affirmed. The cop seized them and we didnt know for sure if we would get it back. On asking, he confirmed he would not. We explained that the weather required us weaklings to get a small sip of the liquor otherwise we would not survive. He relented and gave us our bottles back for a fee. My brother nodded at me and I fished out a 100 INR note. He felt glad. We drove on.

Chashma-e-Shahi

The barren Chashma

Nobody except 3 of Us

While visiting the Chashma-e-Shahi, we constantly kept reminding ourselves that the nearby park Dara Shikoh is aptly named because this is the place where the eldest & favorite son of Shah Jahan ‘Dara Shikoh’ (also the more deserving heir prince to Mughal Throne) was killed and buried on instructions of Aurangzeb (in consultation with his sister Roshanara). Since I’ve known this, I watch Roshanara’s grave everyday during my morning walk with a different perspective. The Spring and then the Nishat was absolutely deserted without a single soul. My brother exclaimed – you would not be able to visit these gardens with only 3 of us here ever. The barren-ness of Nishat left us little wish for Shalimar and we re-fuelled to get on our way to Sonamarg.

As we inched north, landscapes became prettier with snow capped higher ridges. I started checking the election results to keep us informed if we would need to turn back sooner. As we crossed Ganderbal, the results came out in accordance with the wishes of the majority junta – PDP. 

Foggy Icy Dal Lake

Shikaras flowing over Dal

Gagangir

Detour to Gurez before Ganderbal

A heap of villagers beat our windows as we crossed Gagangir – we relented. They sold their horse trips, sledge trips and ATV rides. We had decided that we would turn around from here. On the way back, the euphoria of PDP victory was even more evident as we kept driving steadily through the barrage of people and party workers. The turn to Gurez enticed me constantly but better sense prevailed and we didnt take the detour to Gurez albeit I stopped to take the picture and promised to return.

We crossed through Srinagar and took the awkward out-of-nowhere left from Bijbehara to Pahalgam. As confirmed by Sunnyji, it was supposed to be a good route and after the first kilometer, it proved to be so. The final leg of that road connecting with KP road was shown as a trail by the GPS but gladly the cops’ and villagers’ advise was true and we joined the main road to Pahalgam just before the deserted Amarnath Camps.

My brother had returned here after 17 years and his elation fell through his mouth. I also felt much better due to the sunshine after the gloominess of Shopian, Pulwama, Srinagar, et al. After visiting Pahalgam Hotel and Mountview, we decided to go in for a suite at Pahalgam Hotel. My friends, I could now dedicate an entire blog on Pahalgam Hotel (please check my review on tripadvisor). Our stay there was one of the best stays I have had in my life so far in India. The amenities, the service, the food, the views – and above all, the gentleness of the service staff combined with the value and respect they provide you is what made our stay different. This respect of a Customer is what we crave for, in this country, and do not get – especially in peak seasons. Abroad, in developed as well as developing countries that I have travelled, you get that respect that a Customer should get – whether it be a Hotel or a Showroom.

We visited Punjabi Rasoi hoping we might get to meet Sunnyji after we couldn’t in Srinagar but we knew he wouldn’t visit most probably in this off season. Fortunately, it was open and his manager Shaukat catered us well. Alas, the Tandoor was non-functional here also and we missed the Naans. The food was really nice – more than the Punjabi Rasoi & Tadka at Srinagar. With tired bones, my sleep drowned me in the cozy sofa-bed.

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 03

Srinagar – Gulmarg – Srinagar 

Due to possibility of finding snow we had decided to hire a Tavera (many thanks to our fellow BCMTian Sunnyji) at a nice price. The Driver Shafaque showed up ontime and took us swiftly to Gulmarg. As we de-boarded from the car, it was all green and our driver advised it has started snowing to which we said What Snow? But yes, the invisible snow soon showed up and started wetting our gloves.

Sand Mining in Jhelum

Invisible Snowfall at Gulmarg

Deboarding at Khilanmarg

Just Like That

Just Fell Down

The army of horse owners started selling their services and due to off season, we felt like 3 crabs amidst 20 hungry cranes. After a while, we gave up and struck a deal with one of them who took us first to the Gondola Base. The horses were not really helpful because their shoes made them slip on the sleety-snowy-road. As we moved in the Gondola, a pile of ‘Guides’ pounced and yet again, we finally had to srike a deal with one of them.

Old Chair Trolley Booth

The experience up above was okay with quite a few skiers and sledgers entertaining the tourists on the imbalanced snow fields. I tried and failed – the experience was nowhere even close to Aspen (Colorado). But I enjoyed walking in the snow and I vowed again & again that as soon as my 6-yr old Woodlands expire, I would buy a pair of Quechua.

Gulmarg Ring Road

On returning, the horse owners had to keep their promise and took us for a round all around Gulmarg forcibly but politely. My brother’s 9 year old Niagara Blue Raincoats gave us a lot of protection from the wetting snow. We also came across a local hatchback that had skid off the road on the snow striking a lamppost.

As we left Gulmarg, the entire valley looked white – no trace of the green. Shafaque enjoyed our Shammi Kapoor – Dev Anand songs with us. The day came to an uneventful end after a quick dinner at Punjabi Tadka. We checked out before sleeping to avoid wastage of time the next morning. We also met a co-manager of the Hotel Mr Basit – a very fluent English speaker. On interacting more, we found out he is an alumnus of UT Dallas (a fellow longhorn of my brother) and now returned to his homeland and works on softwares across companies helping things run better. 

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 02

Akhnoor – Sunderbani – Rajouri – Bhimber Gali – Surankote – Baffliaz – Shopian – Pulwama – Srinagar 

When we woke up at Chenab Hut, I am not sure whether we felt fortunate or unfortunate that we didn’t hear any shelling. Upon looking at the map later, we observed that this was a place where we were the closest to the International Border (let alone LOC) – I really believe no place I have slept or will sleep in future will be so close to any Indian Border.

As planned, we got ready by 6:45 AM and buzzed our hosts. Quickly capturing few pictures, we left for the highlight of our trip. 900m ahead, a right turn took us to Sunderbani quicker than the old Poonch Road. The BRO JE kept calling us to check our progress every hour and as expected, during the last hour his calling came more frequent. All along the way, there were regular army patrols ensuring safety. Through these areas or otherwise, one phrase always keeps me busy: “One Man’s Terrorist is Another Man’s Freedom Fighter”. But I always convince myself with that Dialogue from Shootout at Lokhandwala “There is going to be at least One Man standing with the Gun outside your house. What do you want him to be?”

7AM With Flash

7 AM Without Flash

Rajouri

Bhimber Gali

Link Road Starts

Anyway, our route took us to Bhimber Gali avoiding Rajouri Town (though the GPS showed the road ending at Bhimber Gali). We confirmed that we were following the right way by following the chainage of Jammu-Akhnoor-Poonch road. We actually don’t remember the name of the village we stopped – all we remember is it was chainage 204. We were treated to delicious bread & other veg besan pakoras with tea. As we left after clicking pictures of the LOC ridge, the Link Road from Bhimber Gali to Surankote took us south towards Rajouri. This Link Road shows up on GPS as a trail like the Mughal Road.

Mughal Road Starts

We were told that in the gone days, Surankote was the hub of militant activity where the teams arrived and were then distributed across the valley by their area commanders. We passed through Buffliaz bridge and were welcomed by the Mughal Road. Soon after making the entry at the first check point, we reached the second check point which was now very close to Pir Ki Gali.

Buffliaz Bridge

Pir Ki Gali

Zaznar - Proposed Tunnel Project

Mughal Road ends into Shopian

After having a gala time at the top, the descent into Shopian & Pulwama led us through to Srinagar and a tough task started – finding a “Decent Hotel” (pun intended). After a lot of storming, we checked into Hotel Welcome – the only one hotel that was fully functional on the Boulevard Road. The Electric Blanket was a pleasant surprise. The news of our arrival in Srinagar back home didn’t worry our Dad as much as the fact that we drove through Pulwama approach.

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day 01

Delhi – Ambala – Akhnoor 

Our bags packed, we could leave almost at our planned time – 4:12 AM and amidst heavy fog, my brother could speedily yet comfortably pull over at our first watering hole at Ambala by 7:20 AM. After a heavy & sumptuous breakfast, we left at 8:30 AM and went non-stop till JK Border. The Crossing had lesser traffic – due to two reasons – Elections & off Season. The Border also looked less wider. We had planned to make a pit stop at Coral River Resort (on the East side of Highway) but in our obedience of traffic rules, we didn’t take the divider cut just before the resort. After the resort, there was no cut before the JK Border. So we did the needful at the filthy JK Border Building.

Same Dilapidated Building

The terrain didn’t really changed after the border. What changed was the scenario of Election Posters, Flags and posters of Modi everywhere (Now you know how BJP triumphed the Jammu area). Kathua, in fact, was holding ballot that day and we could see long queues outside voting booths spilling on the highway.

Just after crossing Tawi Bridge, taking the Canal Road to Akhnoor, we pulled over on a side for the delicious packed lunch from my in-laws. After carefully disposing them off, we reached the 13BRTF HQ at 22-23 Chainage at 3:30 PM.

Now your question would be “What is Chainage?” Chainage is the identification number of each Milestone and is unique for a road-segment. The road segment also would not be identifiable by you & me easily. For example: A milestone showing Ambala at 0 km & Delhi at 200 km would not be Chainage 0. It would have been so if the road-segment was Ambala-Delhi only but as we know NH1 is from Delhi-Wagah hence, the milestone mentioned above would be Chainage 200. You could confirm this by looking at the number written on the side panel of the Milestone. This number, my friends, is the Chainage. This number sets you free from the restrictions of noting the Distance mentioned on either side of the Milestone. The 22-23 Chainage mentioned above meant that on the Jammu-Akhnoor-Poonch road, the destination was between Jammu 22 & Jammu 23 milestone (i.e. if you are looking at it from the oncoming traffic side). This entire gyan would not have been received by me if it wasn’t for the BRO Guest House.

Final Indian Leg of Chenab

Chenab besides Akhnoor Fort

Akhnoor Fort

The evening passed on with visits to Akhnoor Fort (now unmaintained and inaccessible by Archaeological Survey of India), the 2 Cave Temple nearby (the priest of which claimed one cave goes to Vaishnodevi & the other goes to Amarnathji) and the wonderful true-in-it’s-existence Chenab River. I exclaimed to my brother – remember the confluence of Chandra & Bhaga at Keylong! The one-way Bridge over Chenab serves as the main entrance to the town of Akhnoor and we were told that this bridge was of utmost strategic importance during 1971 War since this was the only access to Poonch from anywhere (Mughal Road was also inaccessible that time). After that struggle, many more new roads have been laid down including the Akhnoor By-Pass which we took the next day to reach Sunderbani as well as the Mughal Road.

Over the Supper, my brother finally asked his friend whether Mughal Road is accessible and open right now. He speed-dialled a number and got an affirmation from his colleague. After a brain-storm, we decided to go ahead and in a few minutes, a junior engineer from BRO called us to confirm our next day’s food requirements. We cheered and slept with the Heater on!

Mission Kashmir 2014 - Day ZERO

Dec 12, 2014 – Dec 19, 2014

Planning – Confusion – Withdrawal – Packing!

As the time for kids’ school vacation grew closer, my & my elder brother (an expert on driving) started chalking out a travel plan. His fellow IITian, we knew since years, works with BRO as an Executive Engineer and naturally had been living at all the remote places where we visit to get the adrenaline rush. This time, on enquiring, we found out he is staying in Akhnoor and was about to leave the place for a better life – the life we abhor, quite a bit. I coerced & forced my brother to visit him at least now. He confirmed the trip to start on Dec 24^th which would be the start of the kid’s vacation. However, later, he advised that due to BRO logistical issues, it would be better to leave Delhi on Saturday Dec 20^th itself. He also advised that by leaving on 20^th, we would be able to beat the Tourist Rush, which proved to be so true later. Quickly, on a quest of finding places to go after Akhnoor, I logged in to my favorite website – www.bcmtouring.com

And voila, I found out Mr RK Bharat’s blog which outlined just the perfect self-drive trip which we ended up doing. He took his SX4 through the snow without snow chains and visited the Kashmir Valley in a Delhi registered vehicle. I took the travelogue page to my brother and both our eyes glittered with excitement and plausibility. However we didn’t know what the over-hyped deadly evening news had in store for us. It was a hard time to convince Mom & Dad. Eventually, we had to withdraw our plans of driving into Kashmir – rather keep satisfied with Katra & Patni Top or Khajjiar. With a deflated feeling, I expressed my desire to withdraw from the trip but I am so fortunate that eventually I packed my luggage just a day ahead and sat in the car.

In our minds we knew that if Tunnel would not be snowed in, we would attempt an entry into the Valley. We also had to keep in minds the ongoing elections there. Our hearts were also affixed upon Mughal Road (courtesy BCMTouring).

Mission Australia 2013 - Day 18

Melbourne – Hong Kong – Delhi 

The Budget attendant must have decided not to disturb us because when I woke up at 7 AM, he was busy collecting other cars yet he nodded at me to acknowledge my presence. Completing the return process, we hauled up our luggage for the last leg of our trip, using one of the rest rooms for the chores. Truly admitting, I was tired with so much traveling & flying, all I wanted now to just get home & sleep in my own bed – still I couldn’t help but start missing the wonderful country I was about to say goodbye.

Melbourne International

Aboard QF29

Grabbing some shots of my darlings with the aircrafts in the hangar from the boarding lounge, I gathered myself on a somber note bidding farewell to Australia.

This return journey was not even half comfortable. We didn’t get the window seats & it was all a hustle. Transfer at Hong Kong was smooth – the architecture is really practical & in many ways that I found, superior to Changi. The waiting lounge at HKIA for Cathay Pacific, as expectedly, was full of Indians – making the experience for Neha similar to that of the flight from KUL – DEL while returning from Bali.

The CX-697 Flight to Delhi was a relief in only & only one way – Food. Except that – Nothing. Zilch. I know how Indians are even when they are flying abroad. Or should I say especially when they are flying abroad.

Mission Australia 2013 - Day 17

Halls Gap – Phillip Island 

A spree of stoppages with weather playing a big spoilsport again – nonetheless we visited the Boroka Lookout & the McKenzie Falls – filling up on the Ginger Beer again, proceeded towards the Phillip Island through the Melbourne City.

Parked right outside the Room

Final Loading Session

McKenzie Falls

Riding Papa

Even our local Kempty has more water than this
but but but
Caucasians are so good at making each place accessible & marketable
AND above all expert at maintaining the place neat & clean & traffic free

McKenzie Falls

Boroka Lookout
but nothing to look

All Clouded, our Bad

Bumped into our newly married relatives

And our French friends from Walpa Gorge (Kata Tjuta)

Ayana, Its not okay to hug each & every baby you meet

Driving through the countryside was a pleasure with the transition from mountains to rolling hills to small farm-villages and then joining up with the A8 that would take us through Ararat & Ballarat to Melbourne. Sleeping advisory boards were common in the area & I soon realized why – when I pulled over into a McDonalds and pushed Neha with Ayana outside the car to take a strong power nap.

With the watch showing 3 PM and GPS showing at least 6 hours to our destination; I decided to press the Gas to reach well in time. I admired my decision when we got stuck in the Melbourne traffic. On the way, I also found myself blocking the tram lines but what the heck – everybody was on the tram track! The tram had no option but to wait.

Phillip Island is a really long long way – about 150 km – from Melbourne CBD. The Penguin Parade Show was at the very far end & we were clicking pictures around when we bumped into our earlier French friends from Uluru – Corinne & Laurent. They had been driving all the way south from Uluru to Melbourne. The show was about to begin when during a photo session, Neha started waving to somebody – I turned to see who & the lovely newly married couple arrived straight onto Phillip Island from Kolkata – Prerna & Mudit. We gasped at the co-incidence & had a nice evening together with the Penguins offering to drop them at their Hotel. How forgetful we must have been to not know that the eating options would be scarce in Australia at 11 PM in the night. Fortunately, we found a pizza outlet which we relished at their Hotel room. It must have been midnight when I decided we had to take leave & head to the Airport. We drove out into the city for an hour during which we witnessed some horrible events happening around the town. Even the traffic signals changed their nature so much that I feel I might have committed a mistake or two.

By the time we reached the Airport, Neha & Ayana were fast asleep. Their sleep was a little disturbed when I pulled over into the Petrol Pump to refuel. Upon reaching a parking spot, I decided to let my travel party sleep. Soon I also fell into deep slumber. 

Mission Australia 2013 - Day 16

Port Campbell – Halls Gap 

The morning started with a quick Twelve Apostles round-up followed by the Loch-Ard Gorge & London Bridge before we got tired again of stopping. I gulped down the Ginger Beer & pressed the Gas to pass Warnambool onto the Grampians. The road to Halls Gap didn’t seem much different from the approach to Ranikhet or Lansdowne here in India – only it was much cleaner & well-lane-marked with much lesser cars in the sight.

With a Melbourne based Gentleman
who tasted our Rice - Palak Paneer with interest &
who talked about his love for travel he got from his father
which made me remember I got mine from my father too

Shared Kitchen at Port Campbell Hostel
Free Food Fridge is the Best

Twelve Apostles

You never Park in the Physically Challenged reserved Slot

Loch Ard Gorge

Ginger Beer Ginger Beer
Helps me keep my Stomach clear

London Bridge

Kangaroos in the Children Park at Halls Gap

On Demand - Bollywood Pose

This picture would always be my favorite
Ayana looks grown-up & mature
She retained this pose pretty much through the rest of the trip till Delhi

Halls Gap VIC

I drew to the Gariweld Motel straight away to meet Kim/Peter who had made rude remarks to me on the e-mail however on meeting, Kim seemed to be a genuine & humble person & moreover she also offered us the best price for the stay. The common kitchen was right next to our room & that was an added point.

We rode & walked around the place, took the rides in the community park, interacted with Nepali boy working at a restaurant, and returned to the Motel with a heavy plan for the next day. On the very end of the day, a large group of kangaroos gathered in a park nearby & we had a gala time clicking pictures. Oh, I wished I could stop the time. Remember, today was our last relaxed day. Our packing was to be done keeping in mind we won’t be able to open our suitcases until Delhi now. So the changing clothes for Melbourne Airport were to be kept in the handbag.